[Stussydix]

My cars has been having problems on the boost

Only when I drive down the motorway at steady speed 60-70mph off boost ( Cruz control ) .when I go to over take with out kicking back down the gears I have no boost thought the whole range of revs ... Like it's in limp mode , no turbos

The car drives fine when it's being drivin harder any ideas ?

I read a couple thread but none are 100% matching up to what I have

[dixy2k]

I had the same issue happen to me a couple of weeks ago. Ended up replacing all the injectors. Check with your dealer.
Do you have a code reader?

[135i_vs_]

If you haven't already, check inter-cooler input/output hoses. Common problem for them to crack.

[WreckerX5d]

Originally Posted by 135i_vs_

If you haven't already, check inter-cooler input/output hoses. Common problem for them to crack.

Tell that to the Bay Shore dealership lol. Mine are cracked and they won't fix it.

I have a power loss throughout the rev range/throttle input.

[135i_vs_]

Originally Posted by Wrecker335d

Tell that to the Bay Shore dealership lol. Mine are cracked and they won't fix it.

I have a power loss throughout the rev range/throttle input.

Habberstad BMW of Bay Shore?
Hope your car is under warranty...if they don't want to fix a $60 problem, let them spend $6000 to figure out the problem.

[WreckerX5d]

Originally Posted by 135i_vs_

Habberstad BMW of Bay Shore?
Hope your car is under warranty...if they don't want to fix a $60 problem, let them spend $6000 to figure out the problem.

$1500 was their price. I have an appointment to Huntington on Wednesday. My car has a CPO still.

[135i_vs_]

Originally Posted by Wrecker335d

$1500 was their price. I have an appointment to Huntington on Wednesday. My car has a CPO still.

Jeez, sometimes I question the decisions these "BMW Experts" make when it comes to cars. I've stuck with Smithtown or Bay Shore so far. Can't understand the $1500 when you are still CPO; I would think it's still part of coverage.

Lol...didn't know who you were before...Monk

[JP-76]

Check your boost temperature sensor. It's very common to fail, new one costs about $25. Part number 13627792203.

Causes full range power loss when you start to accelerate from cruising speeds because engine thinks that intake temperature is much higher than it should be and limits boost to limp mode state but wont turn on limp mode light.

Mine was stuct to show 150 F (65c) even in -4 F (-20c) on cold start.

When you stop and turn off the engine, it works just fine.

[Stussydix]

Thanks all going to get the car jacked up at weekend under tray off and all pipes to be check I'll try and get someone with a code reader to come round in the next couple of days and up date . I did have my small vacuum hoses replaced 5 months ago

[Stussydix]

Originally Posted by JP-76

Check your boost temperature sensor. It's very common to fail, new one costs about $25. Part number 13627792203.

Causes full range power loss when you start to accelerate from cruising speeds because engine thinks that intake temperature is much higher than it should be and limits boost to limp mode state but wont turn on limp mode light.

Mine was stuct to show 150 F (65c) even in -4 F (-20c) on cold start.

When you stop and turn off the engine, it works just fine.

Thank you for this

[WreckerX5d]

Originally Posted by 135i_vs_

Jeez, sometimes I question the decisions these "BMW Experts" make when it comes to cars. I've stuck with Smithtown or Bay Shore so far. Can't understand the $1500 when you are still CPO; I would think it's still part of coverage.

Lol...didn't know who you were before...Monk

Just confirmed with Huntington. The turbo hoses are not CPO. Go figure. It's a critical part in the power train... $1100 priced with them. Not sure if the $400 difference makes sense lol. I guess I'd have to order it and install it myself.

My turbo temp sensor apparently is out as well, or at least not reading right. $68 dealer price, so really not too bad. My OBD reading for intake temps seems pretty normal though, 10f above ambient full boost.

[135i_vs_]

Originally Posted by Wrecker335d

Just confirmed with Huntington. The turbo hoses are not CPO. Go figure. It's a critical part in the power train... $1100 priced with them. Not sure if the $400 difference makes sense lol. I guess I'd have to order it and install it myself.

My turbo temp sensor apparently is out as well, or at least not reading right. $68 dealer price, so really not too bad. My OBD reading for intake temps seems pretty normal though, 10f above ambient full boost.

If you need any help let me know, 1 mile from you.
I can also scan your car for BMW codes if you need.

[JP-76]

Boost temperature sensor / air intake temperature sensor = same thing, cold intake sensor is intecraded to MAF

Its located on middle of the intake-side boost hose (coming from the intercooler) and its very easy to change and dont cost much

Originally Posted by Wrecker335d

My OBD reading for intake temps seems pretty normal though, 10f above ambient full boost.

Thats cold intake temperature your OBD-reader has measured, boost temperatures (engine intake temperature) can be at full boost over 140 F (60C) over outside temperature, with JBD or reprogram even higher...

- Jari

[WreckerX5d]

Originally Posted by JP-76

Boost temperature sensor / air intake temperature sensor = same thing, cold intake sensor is intecraded to MAF

Its located on middle of the intake-side boost hose (coming from the intercooler) and its very easy to change and dont cost much

Thats cold intake temperature your OBD-reader has measured, boost temperatures (engine intake temperature) can be at full boost over 140 F (60C) over outside temperature, with JBD or reprogram even higher...

- Jari

So the part they say is broken is unrelated to what I am reading on my OBD scanner?


135i vs, I'll probably do the install on a Sunday. Going to shop around to see where I can get some parts at a good price.

[JP-76]

Originally Posted by Wrecker335d

So the part they say is broken is unrelated to what I am reading on my OBD scanner?

I would guess so, because you need something like DIS or other BMW diagnostic to read all the sensors correctly.

Forexample very popular INPA-software is telling you that its reading boost temps but actually it can only read cold intake temp...

If your scanner shows linearly some change in temperatures compairing cruising speed to full throttle (but only few degrees), then it propably is showing cold intake temp.

I would recommend to you all who are interested to know what is really going on in our D:s, to check out this little software: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ime-graph-view

Its free, and its been developed by a Finnish guy who really knows what hes doing.

With this software you can read any possible and inpossible sensor from your car, log it, read live data, etc.

[siicom]

Need a recommendation for mechanic close to buffalo, I will be driving from Toronto.

Need to replace the egr cooler assembly not covered under cpo.

After I picked up the car from the dealer who diagnosed the engine light code I started to losing torque power; they said might be egr cooler related with the pressure

dealer cost $676

[Stussydix]

sorry for such late reply , the issue I had was the remap that was on the car .. Got the car all remapped and sorted since then ,, but still more problem keep coming up ..

Had to replace my turbo solenoid on the small turbo.. Pain in the arse that was

Then I had issues with my dpf which ending up being chopped out ..

And now I'm getting error code CD-31 increased emissions.. See photo

[Stussydix]

Ok so the car carried on with that cd id 31 fault for a month then I finally got pissed off with it and started taking the car apart.

---I ending up fixing the issue ---

I re did all of my vaccum pipes with 3mm silicon black tubing

I disconnected both pressure connects and the electric vaule brain thingy at the bottom part #4 . Then re connected everything making sure that all was connected and fully sealed with no vaccum leeks

I then disconnected to battery for 10 mins

Then reconnected n started the car and left to idle for 5 mins

Cleared all the fault by OBD port

drove it around the block turned it off (key out)

Key in and started it up ... No engine management lights no error codes all fixed .....

I have done about 1000miles since and error codes still haven't returned

£7 for the silicon tubing and about 1 hours playing around

[astrotj]

Had the same problem. Driving at highway speed. Light comes on (Engine Malfunction - Reduced Power). Loss of power. No acceleration. Deal first changed mass flow sensor. Said it was faulty. Got car back. Within a few days same issue again. Back to the dealer. Now they say that they found a SWIRL
FLAP ACTUATOR. $1,500.
Not good!

[Stussydix]

Originally Posted by astrotj

Had the same problem. Driving at highway speed. Light comes on (Engine Malfunction - Reduced Power). Loss of power. No acceleration. Deal first changed mass flow sensor. Said it was faulty. Got car back. Within a few days same issue again. Back to the dealer. Now they say that they found a SWIRL
FLAP ACTUATOR. $1,500.
Not good!

Jesus that isn't good at all

[TorqueAddict]

Originally Posted by astrotj

Had the same problem. Driving at highway speed. Light comes on (Engine Malfunction - Reduced Power). Loss of power. No acceleration. Deal first changed mass flow sensor. Said it was faulty. Got car back. Within a few days same issue again. Back to the dealer. Now they say that they found a SWIRL
FLAP ACTUATOR. $1,500.
Not good!

I guess you can remove the swirl flaps, and leave the actuator plugged in. If the actuator itself is not bad (you may be getting the CEL due to a stuck swirl flap, or the stuck flap might not let the actuator move) you will not have any CEL. If you browse the UK diesel foums, it is a very common practice there to remove them.

[gtp900]

Originally Posted by TorqueAddict

I guess you can remove the swirl flaps, and leave the actuator plugged in. If the actuator itself is not bad (you may be getting the CEL due to a stuck swirl flap, or the stuck flap might not let the actuator move) you will not have any CEL. If you browse the UK diesel foums, it is a very common practice there to remove them.

Do they just remove, or plug? What is the bennifits of keeping them/taking them out? I know if you take them out you don't need to worry about the engine "eating" them if they fail, a common problem in older models I think.