[Opo]

Hey everybody,

I'm going to be replacing my clutch in a couple weeks with a friend of mine, I have been researching like crazy and have bought a ton of parts so far, I just want to double confirm that I have everything I need and also I have a question about the clutch alignment tool.

Parts I have:
-clutch alignment tool not sure how this is going to work... question below
-new LUK dual mass flywheel
-new pilot bearing
-new 335is clutch disc
-new 335is pressure plate
-new release bearing
-new clutch fork lever
-new bronze clutch fork pivot pin I only need one of these right?
-new flywheel bolts (8 of them)
-new pressure plate bolts (6 of them)
-new aluminium transmission mounting bolts (5 of them)
-new rear main seal any other seals I should replace while I'm in there

So my questions:
1. how in the hell is the clutch alignment tools going to work? in the HPF video they pressure plate they have does not have the inner circle on it that the release bearing makes contact with like the pressure plate I have does (or the other factory 335i clutch pressure plate replacements for that matter) this inner circle makes it impossible to tighten down the pressure plate with the alignment tool in there never mind pull it out afterwards - am I missing something obvious? how is this supposed to work?

2. I only need one clutch fork pivot pin right?

3. I am replacing the rear main seal while I am in there, is there any other seals I should be replacing while I'm in there?

4. Any pic requests? I was unable to find a text & pic DIY for the clutch replacement (the HPF video is great but doesn't cover everything as they don't replace the flywheel, rear main seal etc.)

Any help is appreciated, thanks.

[Myrder]

Nice...seems like everyone is doing this.

I also got the 335is clutch and pressure plate.

Going in a 2010 with 45k miles on it. So I will assess the flywheel when its apart. I'll get some pictures up and such after I'm done.

Good luck man!

as far as I remember the input shaft is 1.375" so if you can find a similar clutch alignment tool with that input you are good, or you can use a deep socket that fits snug, lots of options when you DIY. Some people feel it out. I'll let ya know if my clutch alignment tool I grabbed works, I'll post the part number if it does.

edit: I'm doing all this on thursday and friday.

[Jklad]

Aren't you gonna replace the guibo?! (Flex disc on the drive shaft). I swear everyone's reposting about the same thing this week it's like dejavu around here lol!

[Opo]

niiiiice, looking forward to your updates!

is the clutch alignment tool you got different than this one?

http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E92-335...utch/ES199954/

The only thing I can think of now is that this inner circle piece is just there for shipping purposes and you actually have to remove it before installation.... I really don't know tho, feel like a rookie again lol

[Myrder]

No I got one off amazon thats for another clutch brand company that has the same input shaft diameter.... it was 10bux so I am guinea pigging it up. lol


@JKlad is talking about this http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E88-135...272/ES2500955/

I'll do that later down the line if I have any issues with mine later.

Now that I see it's 30 bux might just be wise to go with that if you haven't done a clutch swap before. I have done a few, so I'm comfortable with other means.

[Opo]

yeah I don't have any driveline vibration etc. at the moment so I'll inspect the guibo while I'm under there, if it looks rough I'll replace it but not something I was planning on buying ahead of time.

I found the answer to my apparently dumb #1. question lol, it is a lock ring that you remove once pressure plate is bolted down. attached a pic from my manual..

#2, you only need one pivot pin.

#3. any other seals I should be replacing while I'm in there?

[Blue Streak]

Subscribed...
I need a new clutch also, and possibly resurface the OEM DMFW or install a new OEM one. I'd like to think I can do it my self, but I'm evaluating.

Thanks for your efforts.

[Tommeh]

I need a good picture DIY. 93,000 Miles on an 08 that has been at 390+HP for about 4 years.

[Myrder]

I finished the swap, wasn't bad. My main complaints would be the top bolts that you access in the engine bay for the top of the bellhousing AND the top passenger side bolt you get from under the car (have lots of patience and use breathing techniques). Overall it's a typical clutch swap, nothing out of the ordinary except how small the flywheel and clutch are. My flywheel had 40,000 miles on it and looked great, I cleaned it off and it still had the machine ridges and lines throughout with no burns, so I left it in.

I made my own clutch alignment tool. Out of some scrap tubing and electrical tape to get it snug inside and out. Overall very ghetto but worked.

I also used a small triangle block of wood with a giant clamp to hold it to engine block in the flywheel teeth to keep it from spinning when torquing the pressure plate.

Make sure you mark all the random bolts and put them in bags and life will be fine.

Remember to have some long extensions (2ft worth) and universal joints in all sizes on hand. Definitely need a friend to help and keep patience in line. AND get that 3/8 drive with then bendable head as that is 100% needed when doing top bellhousing bolts, that and maybe a small like 12-9mm sized wrenchs (3in long) to get in there and move faster.

Clutch engagement is low right now but has move up a little since driving, only have 30miles on it. Will report back after a couple hundred miles or so. Also the clutch is a little stiffer, but not much, the pressure plate is definitely stronger.

[Bluesun]

I'm doing mine soon as well. Just about that time for people I spose

[Opo]

Originally Posted by Myrder

I finished the swap, wasn't bad. My main complaints would be the top bolts that you access in the engine bay for the top of the bellhousing AND the top passenger side bolt you get from under the car (have lots of patience and use breathing techniques). Overall it's a typical clutch swap, nothing out of the ordinary except how small the flywheel and clutch are. My flywheel had 40,000 miles on it and looked great, I cleaned it off and it still had the machine ridges and lines throughout with no burns, so I left it in.

I made my own clutch alignment tool. Out of some scrap tubing and electrical tape to get it snug inside and out. Overall very ghetto but worked.

I also used a small triangle block of wood with a giant clamp to hold it to engine block in the flywheel teeth to keep it from spinning when torquing the pressure plate.

Make sure you mark all the random bolts and put them in bags and life will be fine.

Remember to have some long extensions (2ft worth) and universal joints in all sizes on hand. Definitely need a friend to help and keep patience in line. AND get that 3/8 drive with then bendable head as that is 100% needed when doing top bellhousing bolts, that and maybe a small like 12-9mm sized wrenchs (3in long) to get in there and move faster.

Clutch engagement is low right now but has move up a little since driving, only have 30miles on it. Will report back after a couple hundred miles or so. Also the clutch is a little stiffer, but not much, the pressure plate is definitely stronger.

Thanks for the insights. I plan to remove my intake manifold to help save my sanity when it comes to removing/installing those top bell housing bolts. I'd rather do the extra 20mins of disassembly/reassembly than bother fighting with those bolts.

[Black_Jesus]

I have to do mine as well, I'm at 37k miles. What's the difference between the act street and the 335is clutch?

[Opo]

Not sure of the exact differences as far as power handling goes but the ACT clutch does not seem to have a good reputation around here. Search about it a little bit on these forums, lots of complaints of very short life on them and awful pedal feel.

[nukezero]

So does anyone know then, if it is possible to use the 335iS clutch on a standard non-IS 335i?

For example, I want to buy a 2012 335iS n54 clutch and install it (along with a new flywheel) on my 2009 335i?

Does it fit ? Are the flywheels the same?

[Myrder]

Originally Posted by nukezero

So does anyone know then, if it is possible to use the 335iS clutch on a standard non-IS 335i?

For example, I want to buy a 2012 335iS n54 clutch and install it (along with a new flywheel) on my 2009 335i?

Does it fit ? Are the flywheels the same?

It fits, I got a 335is/550i clutch and put it in my 2010 335i.

[Myrder]

Originally Posted by Black_Jesus

I have to do mine as well, I'm at 37k miles. What's the difference between the act street and the 335is clutch?

both are organic clutch disks. ACT advertises 456tq. 335is/550i clutch has no advertised max torque. Though 550i's are making over 500lbs of tq to the wheels and moving more weight, with very few stories of slipping so who knows.

[Myrder]

Originally Posted by Opo

Thanks for the insights. I plan to remove my intake manifold to help save my sanity when it comes to removing/installing those top bell housing bolts. I'd rather do the extra 20mins of disassembly/reassembly than bother fighting with those bolts.

even with the manifold off, the top bellhousing bolt is behind the valve train and is just a B to get at. I recommend a small ratcheting box end or the like that fits snuggly on the E-bolt that way you can break it loose with angled ratchet and then move it quicker with boxend.

[nukezero]

Originally Posted by Myrder

It fits, I got a 335is/550i clutch and put it in my 2010 335i.

So you use the same factory 335i flywheel or you need to buy the 335is/550 flywheel?

[Opo]

Originally Posted by Myrder

even with the manifold off, the top bellhousing bolt is behind the valve train and is just a B to get at. I recommend a small ratcheting box end or the like that fits snuggly on the E-bolt that way you can break it loose with angled ratchet and then move it quicker with boxend.

Thanks! Good to know

[Myrder]

Originally Posted by nukezero

So you use the same factory 335i flywheel or you need to buy the 335is/550 flywheel?

I reused my stock flywheel, it was lower mileage with no burn marks and still had the machined grooves very prominent on the face of the wheel.

[spxxx]

Originally Posted by Myrder

I reused my stock flywheel, it was lower mileage with no burn marks and still had the machined grooves very prominent on the face of the wheel.

This is what I'm praying for but I ordered an OEM one and will decide on replacing when I open her up.

Found an OEM flywheel for $520 shipped from new-part.com (first time shopping there)

[Blue Streak]

I just installed this clutch for the 335is on my 2007 335i E90. The flywheel looked nearly perfect so I kept it. It works perfectly so far and is nice and smooth and seems to hold the power no problem.