[yafool]

Anyone have their original battery unable to hold a charge at 80k? Need to jump the car if I don't start the car within a couple minutes of unlocking it.

Probably pick up an oem battery so I just need to register it. Any tips on that?

[Nushibo]

Originally Posted by yafool

Anyone have their original battery unable to hold a charge at 80k? Need to jump the car if I don't start the car within a couple minutes of unlocking it.

Probably pick up an oem battery so I just need to register it. Any tips on that?

Simple plug and play matter. Just need to fine someone willing to code the battery for you in the LA area. ask around in the coding section someone will pop up or find an inde. Find the coder before you do the battery though. Make sure the amps are the same as well.


EDIT: DIY found heres you go just in case lol. Still need to get it coded.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...hlight=battery

[yafool]

Yea... I'm stuck in norcal for work for the next two weeks....

[Nushibo]

Originally Posted by yafool

Yea... I'm stuck in norcal for work for the next two weeks....

Oh dang thats a dilemma , a battery tender may favor you down the road. Hook it up to keep a charge plus i think its a good investment. Keep one at home for the old e46 m3 since we start her once a month just to keep her movin.

[bdwyer]

Originally Posted by yafool

Anyone have their original battery unable to hold a charge at 80k? Need to jump the car if I don't start the car within a couple minutes of unlocking it.

Probably pick up an oem battery so I just need to register it. Any tips on that?

I had an issue after a snow storm this winter. Still started, but the blower motor stayed off except in defrost mode! Not very often it sees a long drive though either.

Looking to replace my white battery with the black AGM 92ah (61217639053). Coding is necessary any time you change size or type unfortunately.

[WreckerX5d]

Batteries go out quicker if you do more short distance driving. Mileage has no effect on battery life.

I believe a group 49 is the battery you need. Maybe a 48. It's whichever is bigger.

[BB_cuda]

I got a new battery for no charge from BMW/midtown in Houston but i'm still in warranty. Original battery was a 94R but was replaced with group 49 which is bigger. Group 48 is smaller than both 94R and 49.

Before i got the freebie, I was doing homework on trying to find an aftermarket that had similar specs but it is hard to get the amp-hr rating from them. Aftermarket typically gives CCA. If you go to the manufacturer site, sometimes you get good info. I have a spreadsheet but that seems to not be an allowed file format to post here. PM me with contact info and i can send it then.

[yafool]

Thanks for the info guys. I was able to hold out till I am back in LA to have my indy shop put in a new one. Thanks

[BB_cuda]

Did you get an after market or OEM one?

[bdwyer]

I went the aftermarket route, Exide FP-AGML5/49. Ran me about 200 for the battery. I didn't find much info out there about anyone who swapped with one of these, but it's a solid choice. 4 year replacement warranty, 4 year prorated that begins after the replacement period expires.

The 92ah AGM is considerably bigger than the factory white unit, but it fits. The biggest PITA of the whole thing was refitting the anchor that keeps the battery from sliding around. There isn't much room to work with once the battery is in place. You'll need a really long extension for the socket.

Coding was easy, changed the VO and klasse_batterie in CAS to 92ah_agm. Followed up with ISTA/D to reflect the battery swap.

Car starts much easier and feels better in general after doing this. My battery still showed green on the built in condition indicator so it probably wasn't as bad as the OP's.

[taibanl]

A couple points to consider:

BMW recently put out a service bulletin that they are changing from an official OEM battery, to aftermarket Exide batteries

Additionally, at least on my diesel I do not have the intelligent battery Sensor, so it makes me wonder if registration is even necessary

[yafool]

Originally Posted by BB_cuda

Did you get an after market or OEM one?

Aftermarket built for BMW so shape is the same.
went o a bigger group 49 100ah battery non AGM
My indy shop ordered it and registered it with their GT1

[Quasimodem]

I just saw in the latest BMWhat update that "Battery registration is now available as inApp".

Not sure what that means, does that mean we have to pay more to get that feature or does "inApp" mean it has been added free of charge?

Anybody tried it with the 335d yet?

[Puerto Rican 335d]

Other battery provider is SEARS for I believe $180 made for our cars. I had the STEALERSHIP change mines under warranty and trust me they tried to give me hell to make them install one. OPTIMA does not make batteries for our cars since I have had them on 02 MCS and 2004 Chevy Venture. The Mini's battery is over 6 yrs old and the Ventures is over 4.

[stevers314]

Originally Posted by Quasimodem

I just saw in the latest BMWhat update that "Battery registration is now available as inApp".

Not sure what that means, does that mean we have to pay more to get that feature or does "inApp" mean it has been added free of charge?

Anybody tried it with the 335d yet?

You have to pay more for it. I think it was $4.99 for the CBS reset function.

[Quasimodem]

Originally Posted by stevers314

You have to pay more for it. I think it was $4.99 for the CBS reset function.

Cool thanks.

[taibanl]

Originally Posted by BB_cuda

Did you get an after market or OEM one?

There is no OEM anymore.

Per TSB, BMW now use off the shelf exide 92Ah

[Yozh]

FYI: BMWhat's latest update now allows battery registration. If anyone tries this, please post your impressions.

[BB_cuda]

Originally Posted by taibanl

There is no OEM anymore.

Per TSB, BMW now use off the shelf exide 92Ah

My battery looks like the deka group 49 but it is white. deka and exide spec sheets attached. Sorry, the exide one is only for AGM. I had it changed January 2014. When did they go to off the shelf Exide?

[Hoooper]

Is there a point where the car tells you the battery needs to be replaced or are we just relying on noticing that its dead? I can tell mine is going to need to be replaced soon, slow cranking even when its fairly warm out, cant sit in the car with the radio on for long at all, and the battery voltage is maxing out at 12.18 which is like 25% charge at best. Im kind of holding out at this point to see how long it goes but I doubt it will be too much longer

[BB_cuda]

Originally Posted by Hoooper

Is there a point where the car tells you the battery needs to be replaced or are we just relying on noticing that its dead? I can tell mine is going to need to be replaced soon, slow cranking even when its fairly warm out, cant sit in the car with the radio on for long at all, and the battery voltage is maxing out at 12.18 which is like 25% charge at best. Im kind of holding out at this point to see how long it goes but I doubt it will be too much longer

maxing out at 12.18 from battery tender or from driving car?

I hope the voltage is way higher when car is started (mid 13's). After the battery change, with the car turned off, VDC=12.74. This was after opening the hood and waiting for the silly little noises under hood to stop ~30 -45 seconds. Things seems to turn on when hood is opened.

If i had to buy one, I liked Orielly's and NAPA group 49/lead acid. They look like Deka/East Penn manufactured. Black with the circular caps with "+" in middle of caps. Hooper, Let us know what happens please.

[Hoooper]

12.18 is the max charge checked at the battery. I've checked it after a drive and then again after about 3hrs on a charger. No change. I have no reason to believe there is an alternator issue since I haven't had any issues while driving but I didn't check it while running. I guess I oughta do that just to be sure before I spend $200 on a battery.