[vmqxdv]

Originally Posted by oVeRdOsE.

they are pricey and B58 issues start to ramp quickly now the warranties start to end.

Specifically the cam ledge/caps cracking that is starting. Persistent misfire, no compression. Broken camshaft. Its pretty wild lately.

While the old N engines are well documented and you can easily plan a contingency fund.

I was also thinking about this!! I much prefer to have an engine that is over documented, knowing all the issues and the weaknesses it have and how to resolve them.

[oVeRdOsE.]

Originally Posted by vmqxdv

I was also thinking about this!! I much prefer to have an engine that is over documented, knowing all the issues and the weaknesses it have and how to resolve them.

early version seems to have more issues, but it's the early DME you want (unlocked).

when you start having internal issues, it's where I loose it. I dont say N54 dont have internal issues, but most of their issue are around the engine, not in.

[suspect]

Originally Posted by oVeRdOsE.

500bhp, you might get it very close with FBO only and an aggressive tune.

But it wont last.

No need to have a 7.5 fmic, go with a stepped 5'' is more than enough.

No port injection needed either, stock DI is more than enough. If you want the cooling and cleaning benefit, get a generic meth injection kit.

Those car will break no matter what.

You want ''more'' reliability on an N54, go with a small bottom mount single turbo. speedtech is the way to go. (less heat, less o2 sensors, less plastic, less vacuum hose, less turbo, less shitty wastegate, less boost solenoid issues, less plastic piping, less low end torque etc.) more sound , more fun, more reliable. On the long run it might even be cheaper (considering you want to go with pure TTs )

"500bhp, you might get it very close with FBO only and an aggressive tune.

But it wont last."

Do you mean something like MHD V7 ethanol map with stock turbos and inlets? I think thats the most aggressive map?

I thought this engine would handle 500bhp with 17T or 19T with less chance of breaking.

[vmqxdv]

Originally Posted by oVeRdOsE.

yeah, bottom mount are harder to see.

if it's very strict in Italy, you can get a lot of fun with a FBO 335.

- rebuilt the OEM turbo and get a bigger cold side , those are hybrid turbos. They will look exactly like OEM

- catted down pipes.

- water meth injection ; black hose, pump hidden in the front crash bar, use windshield washer tank. Virtually invisible setup.

- valves exhaust, you can find oem variant. but theres a lot of after market option.

- 5'' FMIC

- stock intake with a highflow filter

- MHD stage 2. If you want to push more on a budget get a JB4 back end flash with a do your own tuning. There's some flash file for hybrid turbos.

- do all the maintenance required on a N54.


This is more than enough to get 500bhp on pump gas.

I've found this video where they show a e93 reaching over 500hp whit this items:

1. 17T turbos (link not working)
2. VRSF Charge pipe
3. VRSF Down pipes
4. VRSF 7.5 Intercooler
5. CSF Radiator
6. ARM Inlets

What do you think about it? It seems to be all the item I've choose originally, except for turbos, in the video they say that are from china. Are they safe? Also the link they provided don't work so it would a gamble to get a random 17t

[oVeRdOsE.]

Originally Posted by suspect

"500bhp, you might get it very close with FBO only and an aggressive tune.

But it wont last."

Do you mean something like MHD V7 ethanol map with stock turbos and inlets? I think thats the most aggressive map?

I thought this engine would handle 500bhp with 17T or 19T with less chance of breaking.

more like a custom map on MHD or/ a back end flash with aggressive setting on the JB4.

Based on my experience, playin with fuel bias, boost target and FF/wastegate, didn't bring massive difference at once. But the moment Ive put the meth and increase the boost additive target, the car came a rocket.

I did 440bhp on mine with stock turbos, and I'm pretty sure there was more room, but the clutch didnt follow.

Also had a major turbo lag, nothing bellow 4200rpm.

Didn't look for more room, went single turbo.


And this engine can handle more than 500bhp, I'm around 600bhp right now and might go around 650bhp and stay safe. Some folks pushed 700whp stock internals.

Originally Posted by vmqxdv

I've found this video where they show a e93 reaching over 500hp whit this items:

1. 17T turbos (link not working)
2. VRSF Charge pipe
3. VRSF Down pipes
4. VRSF 7.5 Intercooler
5. CSF Radiator
6. ARM Inlets

What do you think about it? It seems to be all the item I've choose originally, except for turbos, in the video they say that are from china. Are they safe? Also the link they provided don't work so it would a gamble to get a random 17t

be careful swap depot and vehicule virals are parts seller. They will show you all the pros, no cons.

And once again, no need of a massive FMIC, I have a small one and I never get over 85°F with my single turbo, and I'm even lower when I select a meth map.
7.5 need more cutting and fitting, while you probably wont go for crazy power since your area wont allow massive mods.

to said you need a 7.5 on 500bhp, show me logs with iat.


CSF radiator is a good idea on a TT setup. Other pros to go single = less heat, and csf radiator is more or less pertinent.

But you want a oil cooler, OEM or aftermarket if your car is not equipped with already.


search google for ''n54 500hp kit'' there's tons of info on that.

[vmqxdv]

Originally Posted by oVeRdOsE.

be careful swap depot and vehicule virals are parts seller. They will show you all the pros, no cons.

And once again, no need of a massive FMIC, I have a small one and I never get over 85°F with my single turbo, and I'm even lower when I select a meth map.
7.5 need more cutting and fitting, while you probably wont go for crazy power since your area wont allow massive mods.

to said you need a 7.5 on 500bhp, show me logs with iat.


CSF radiator is a good idea on a TT setup. Other pros to go single = less heat, and csf radiator is more or less pertinent.

But you want a oil cooler, OEM or aftermarket if your car is not equipped with already.


search google for ''n54 500hp kit'' there's tons of info on that.

Yeah single turbo is tempting me but I've seen is an engine out job and I don't have that type of equipment (yet). I'll try to get better info from unbiased source! Thank you again for the advice!!

[oVeRdOsE.]

Originally Posted by vmqxdv

Yeah single turbo is tempting me but I've seen is an engine out job and I don't have that type of equipment (yet). I'll try to get better info from unbiased source! Thank you again for the advice!!

hard part is to remove the old TT, so single or not, this is a engine drop (drop subframe) job.

Single might even be easier to install back than bigger TT.

[vmqxdv]

Originally Posted by oVeRdOsE.

hard part is to remove the old TT, so single or not, this is a engine drop (drop subframe) job.

Single might even be easier to install back than bigger TT.

I was doing some searching and I was wondering: can the stock automatic gearbox sustain 500ish hp or I have also to upgrade it?

In other threads, people said to look for a DKG but I think is LCI only, idk if it is stronger

[suspect]

Originally Posted by oVeRdOsE.

more like a custom map on MHD or/ a back end flash with aggressive setting on the JB4.

Based on my experience, playin with fuel bias, boost target and FF/wastegate, didn't bring massive difference at once. But the moment Ive put the meth and increase the boost additive target, the car came a rocket.

I did 440bhp on mine with stock turbos, and I'm pretty sure there was more room, but the clutch didnt follow.

Also had a major turbo lag, nothing bellow 4200rpm.

Didn't look for more room, went single turbo.


And this engine can handle more than 500bhp, I'm around 600bhp right now and might go around 650bhp and stay safe. Some folks pushed 700whp stock internals.




be careful swap depot and vehicule virals are parts seller. They will show you all the pros, no cons.

And once again, no need of a massive FMIC, I have a small one and I never get over 85°F with my single turbo, and I'm even lower when I select a meth map.
7.5 need more cutting and fitting, while you probably wont go for crazy power since your area wont allow massive mods.

to said you need a 7.5 on 500bhp, show me logs with iat.


CSF radiator is a good idea on a TT setup. Other pros to go single = less heat, and csf radiator is more or less pertinent.

But you want a oil cooler, OEM or aftermarket if your car is not equipped with already.


search google for ''n54 500hp kit'' there's tons of info on that.

Do you tune your own car? Which clutch did you have that started slipping?

Don't mean to thread jack but I am in a similar boat as OP wanting at most 500 bhp (because I don't want to change DMF to SMF and I just got a 550i clutch in there) and thinking of getting 14T or 17T because my current turbo wastegates are shot. I think 500bhp would be a conservative and safe figure for N54 with 17T then? I was wondering whether I needed a 7.5" FMIC or 5.5" (which I already have) and will stick with 5.5" if larger one is not required. Especially here in the UK it never stays hot for too long. Thanks oVeRdOsE. I think you have answered my question too.

[oVeRdOsE.]

the clutch was original and 100k km, city driven. So adding a tune was too much.

I ve a twin disk now, good up to 740lb.

TT give you low end torque, so yes 500hp is ''conservative'' if all the torque is not drop down at low rpm from a stop. A tuner can adjust boost per RPM.

for the tune I do a mix. I log a lot, look at all parameter avoiding blowing up the engine, when I feel the car is where I want, I check the power on virtualdyno, and then send everything to a tuner that will edit the .bin fine on tunerpro.

I've started to studying and understand tunerpro for a N54, but I dont have enough experience to mess with this.

Increasing power is a good balance between boost pressure and timing.
I'm running 23psi with 8° timing for around 430whp on map 6.

Map 8 I did not finishing it yet, but I'm at 27psi with 7.5° timing + meth. I must be over 500whp for sure, somewhere 600+to the crank.

[iqraceworks]

Originally Posted by lookalikehuuh

Are you smoking something?

You are taking out a loan to buy a car and modify it pretty heavily and then want it to be reliable at the same time, not only that but doing it on a Banks dime???

#1 335i are not known for their reliability even when fully stock and well taken care of.
#2 the E90 platform is OLD and with as many plastic parts installed on the car many will be failed.
#3 You are assuming you will be getting a perfect specimen of a 335i, most will be far from perfect and likely to require thousands of dollars just to bring the repairs up to proper maintenance standards before starting to modify the car.
#4 you think a bank is going to give you a loan for a car AND the modifications that you are planning to do to their car (because yes its their car until its paid off), which consequently devalues the car, and they will front the costs for that? I really really doubt most if any banks will ever issue you the loan.

Even with the best quality parts once you start pushing the limits on the engines with upgraded Turbos, port injection, and other aftermarket parts there WILL be more issues. You have to realize that even if we give you a price for what the build is now, you will need to have THOUSANDS of dollars in reserves for failures especially if you plan on daily driving this planned car. For example as you push injectors harder (more fuel for longer periods of time) you will need to have $4000 just to do a set of injectors. Another $1500 for the High pressure fuel pump. I assume this is not cash you have readily laying around now since you have to finance an E90.

Anyway, if you can't afford to buy the car, you DEFINITELY can't afford to modify it.

Good info right here. You are going to be up to your eyeballs in debt....these cars will suck you dry.

It would probably be smart to keep the car stock until you can afford to pay it off......see how much money you have to spend just to keep it running. Save up for some mods....or better yet, a backup reliable daily driver. These cars are fun.....but not what I would want as my only mode of transportation.

[iqraceworks]

Originally Posted by vmqxdv

I was doing some searching and I was wondering: can the stock automatic gearbox sustain 500ish hp or I have also to upgrade it?

In other threads, people said to look for a DKG but I think is LCI only, idk if it is stronger

Maybe.....it all depends on what kind of shape it's in. Some start slipping well below that HP level. Get and XHP tune for it, that will bump up the line pressure and help it hold more power before it starts slipping. Makes it shift a lot better too.

[oVeRdOsE.]

Originally Posted by iqraceworks

Good info right here. You are going to be up to your eyeballs in debt....these cars will suck you dry.

It would probably be smart to keep the car stock until you can afford to pay it off......see how much money you have to spend just to keep it running. Save up for some mods....or better yet, a backup reliable daily driver. These cars are fun.....but not what I would want as my only mode of transportation.

great advice.

When people ask me if a 335 is a good idea, I ask :

- are you ready to go on forums/yt/fb group to get info ?
- are you a good DIYer?
- do you have contingency fund ?
- are you ready to not have a car for few days?

If yes to all this, this is a fun car to own.

I kept my previous summer car, but the N54 is ''reliable'' for now, so my other car sits in the driveway with a dead battery !


Also OP got the option to enjoy the car with a stage 1 tune, no mods and do little upgrades here and there until he's ready to go big.

[vmqxdv]

Originally Posted by iqraceworks

Good info right here. You are going to be up to your eyeballs in debt....these cars will suck you dry.

It would probably be smart to keep the car stock until you can afford to pay it off......see how much money you have to spend just to keep it running. Save up for some mods....or better yet, a backup reliable daily driver. These cars are fun.....but not what I would want as my only mode of transportation.

Yeah the loan was to get the car AND the mods at the same time. But now I’ve changed my minds, thanks to oVeRdOsE. . In fact the plan now is to:

1. Buy the car
2. If there are issues, fix them
3. Prepare it to be modded
4. Buy mods when I can

I have to figure out what mods do first, like: charge pipe, radiators, down pipes (if tts upgrade), fuel pump, coils/bags, oil cooler, DR700 kit/tts upgrade.

Does the order make sense?

[oVeRdOsE.]

Originally Posted by vmqxdv

Yeah the loan was to get the car AND the mods at the same time. But now I’ve changed my minds, thanks to oVeRdOsE. . In fact the plan now is to:

1. Buy the car
2. If there are issues, fix them
3. Prepare it to be modded
4. Buy mods when I can

I have to figure out what mods do first, like: change pipe, radiators, down pipes (if tts upgrade), fuel pump, coils/bags, oil cooler, DR700/tts upgrade.

Does the order make sense?

no need fuel pump (low pressure), unless you go E30 and more fuel, or your log drops bellow 45-48psi-ish.

if you speak about the HPFP, this could be a preventive maintenance, early version will fail. Revised version are better. But those are expensive.

Coil and sparkplug yes. Go simple , get Eldor coils, plug and play.

Radiator always a good idea, do the water pump and thermostat, mickey mouse flange and hoses. The cooling system will fail 100% if old.


You always can get a used JB4 on your stock car, and starting to play with it. You'll learn the basics, how to adjust some parameter, and when to stop increasing the levels. It brings tons of safety. It's not the best tuning way right now, but HP / $ / safe ratio is the best for sure.

[vmqxdv]

Originally Posted by oVeRdOsE.

great advice.

When people ask me if a 335 is a good idea, I ask :

- are you ready to go on forums/yt/fb group to get info ?
- are you a good DIYer?
- do you have contingency fund ?
- are you ready to not have a car for few days?

If yes to all this, this is a fun car to own.

I kept my previous summer car, but the N54 is ''reliable'' for now, so my other car sits in the driveway with a dead battery !


Also OP got the option to enjoy the car with a stage 1 tune, no mods and do little upgrades here and there until he's ready to go big.

As for now I have my current car, vw Fox 1.4 tdi (I got my license 2 months ago*, and I need to wait 1 year before driving something with over 55 kW/t).

BUT I'm waiting for a job position that will guarantee me to buy the car comfortably. So I'll buy the car even tho I can't legally drive it and do the fixes/maintenance jobs!

*For clarifications: I'm 21 I drive since 17, but for various reasons I couldn't get the licence earlier. I know how to drive a RWD and powerful cars

[vmqxdv]

Originally Posted by oVeRdOsE.

no need fuel pump (low pressure), unless you go E30 and more fuel, or your log drops bellow 45-48psi-ish.

if you speak about the HPFP, this could be a preventive maintenance, early version will fail. Revised version are better. But those are expensive.

Coil and sparkplug yes. Go simple , get Eldor coils, plug and play.

Radiator always a good idea, do the water pump and thermostat, mickey mouse flange and hoses. The cooling system will fail 100% if old.


You always can get a used JB4 on your stock car, and starting to play with it. You'll learn the basics, how to adjust some parameter, and when to stop increasing the levels. It brings tons of safety. It's not the best tuning way right now, but HP / $ / safe ratio is the best for sure.

Thanks for the advice!!

About JB4 tho I was watching reviews of their "500hp kit" and many did not achieve those numbers (on stock turbos). But I think you were talking about only the tuning device and not the kit! For that I should start study how to tune a car, do you have any books/creator to recommend?

[lowrydr310]

Originally Posted by vmqxdv

I've found this video where they show a e93 reaching over 500hp whit this items:

1. 17T turbos (link not working)
2. VRSF Charge pipe
3. VRSF Down pipes
4. VRSF 7.5 Intercooler
5. CSF Radiator
6. ARM Inlets

What do you think about it? It seems to be all the item I've choose originally, except for turbos, in the video they say that are from china. Are they safe? Also the link they provided don't work so it would a gamble to get a random 17t

Don't focus on the brands, but keep on mind you'll need more than just that stuff, specifically fueling upgrades and a tune. For 500HP you'll definitely need a low pressure fuel pump upgrade. I don't know what fuel you'll need for that power, but you won't get it on 91 octane (95 RON).

If you're set on getting a 335, buy a clean one and focus on basic maintenance first before you do any modifications. Modifications are useless on a car with old coolant system parts ready to break (expansion tank, radiator hoses, mickey mouse flange, radiator itself) and oil leaks.

Get the car sorted out, learn to do basic maintenance, make sure all the oil leaks are addressed, then get the suspension dialed in (upgrade/replace parts if needed.)

Then you can start the modification journey. The easy start is the basic FBO stuff (charge pipe, intercooler upgrade, and downpipes) and MHD Stage 2+ tune. That right there is plenty to have a lot of fun before worrying about turbo upgrades.