[vase330]

While GM is going under for crappy cars, I think its starting to rub off on BMW. It appears each of the last 3 BMWs I bought (E46 M3, E46 330, E92 335) all had some serious reliability issues.

Reliability issues aside, a car costing what a BMW costs, should not sound as crappy as the E92 335 sounds with these rattles, lifter noise etc. Too many happy mise under hood.

[Kerosene Hat]

Update - the fix worked for me for a couple days, and now the rattling noise has returned. It sounds more "rattley" and less metallic than before - I wonder if my wastegate actuator may just be going bad. Resigning to fate of getting software update and *hopefully* the noise remains so BMW will replace the turbo as per this SIB - http://www.bmwtis.com/tsb/bulletins/...p/B111307g.htm

Argh...

Nonetheless, I again thank Mr5 for his research and sharing of knowledge related to this common frustration point for many N54 owners.

[Mr. 5]

Originally Posted by Kerosene Hat

Update - the fix worked for me for a couple days, and now the rattling noise has returned. It sounds more "rattley" and less metallic than before - I wonder if my wastegate actuator may just be going bad. Resigning to fate of getting software update and *hopefully* the noise remains so BMW will replace the turbo as per this SIB - http://www.bmwtis.com/tsb/bulletins/...p/B111307g.htm

Argh...

Nonetheless, I again thank Mr5 for his research and sharing of knowledge related to this common frustration point for many N54 owners.

Yah, it sounds like your actuator isn't holding vacuum and you really need the actuators replaced.
That sucks but at least you know.

[Kerosene Hat]

Thanks for the quick reply, Mr5. It's my guess that the part's just going/gone bad...in addition to the change I noted above, I swear I can feel some 'surging' / irregularity in boost delivery in 1st gear.

This would be somehow easier to tolerate if I had mods on the car, but I'm stock.

Will report back outcomes of the dealer trip in an effort to help anyone else unfortunate enough to be affected by this.

[username604]

If i'm not experienced enough to adjust it myself, am i better off taking it to the dealer or just ignoring the problem? (i don't have the problem, but for future reference)

[swin500]

Originally Posted by davidkneiber

If i'm not experienced enough to adjust it myself, am i better off taking it to the dealer or just ignoring the problem? (i don't have the problem, but for future reference)

Mr. 5's instructions made it easy enough for anyone to do... The dealer won't do it. The TSB specifically says "Do not replace the turbocharger or adjust the existing wastegate actuator control rod."

One tip I can offer... take off the wheel and sneak a light in from down there. you need all the space you can get.

[loweredram]

Not sure if this is old news and I'm repeating it. The Mr.5 wastegate rattle fix by adjusting the arm on the rear wastegate worked for me. The dealer was saying it was normal then the actuator was bad then it needs software.....etc long story short I got sick of it found Mr. 5 post it took me maybe 10min and about a 1/4 turn adjusment problem solved works great no issues nice quite idle. I couldn't believe it. Thanks Mr.5!!!!

[Rotorocious]

Is this a good representation of the wastegate rattle? Might have to turn up your speakers a bit. You can see the very slight application of throttle.

[bimmertt]

i don't know how you all are loosening the nut. there is hardly any room for leverage. anyone in the md/va/dc are that has done this?

[dcorn]

Originally Posted by bimmertt

i don't know how you all are loosening the nut. there is hardly any room for leverage. anyone in the md/va/dc are that has done this?

I plan on doing it as soon as I find a 4mm wrench. Still, I looked in the engine bay at the wastegate and I see no way to even start getting my arm down that side of the engine, not to mention both of them.

[Rotorocious]

I think a 4 mm would be too big. I'll post up a pic of the tool I made out of some aluminum sheet.
Worked pretty good, still think I can go another half turn or more as there is still some tick upon touching the gas pedal.

[ttbmer]

I heard abt this thread but this is the first time I've seen it. I was running JB3 full catless turbo back exhaust and the rattle is bad really bad, now I'm on stock ECU no tunes or piggybacks and NO rattle!

Know I understand why!
Mr 5 "Make sure that the ticking isn't happening because you are using a lagfix map with a tune. Lagfix maps tend to rattle. Only perform this if the ticking is happening when the ECU is at the stock configuration."

Sweet! Waiting for my new tune and see wa happens

[Mr. 5]

Originally Posted by bimmertt

i don't know how you all are loosening the nut. there is hardly any room for leverage. anyone in the md/va/dc are that has done this?

You'll need a stubby 10mm wrench.

Originally Posted by ttbmer

I heard abt this thread but this is the first time I've seen it. I was running JB3 full catless turbo back exhaust and the rattle is bad really bad, now I'm on stock ECU no tunes or piggybacks and NO rattle!

Know I understand why!
Mr 5 "Make sure that the ticking isn't happening because you are using a lagfix map with a tune. Lagfix maps tend to rattle. Only perform this if the ticking is happening when the ECU is at the stock configuration."

Sweet! Waiting for my new tune and see wa happens

#1, I don't have a JB so I'm not using a lagfix map.
Plenty of people have this ticking because the wastegate isn't closed all the way.
BMW came up with a "fix" (which was a joke because it wasn't a fix) by opening the wastegate instead of keeping it closed.
This created the lag.
The lag fix closed it more without keeping it fully closed and because of this, the wastegate would rattle against the seal.
Taking off the lagfix would make the wastegate open all the way so that's why it wouldn't tick.

Originally Posted by Rotorocious

Is this a good representation of the wastegate rattle? Might have to turn up your speakers a bit. You can see the very slight application of throttle.

Sorry I can't hear that. Take a video from outside.

[bimmertt]

Originally Posted by Mr. 5

You'll need a stubby 10mm wrench.

This did it for me. Amazing how much easier things are when you have the right tools.

I did a total of two rotations and still have a very slight rattle. I will do another half rotation tomorrow and see if that completely eliminates it.

Mr. 5, it has been a few years since you posted this. How many times have you had to adjust this rod? Would you say this is a pretty solid solution or would you recommend that this get fixed at the dealer if warranty is still intact?

[335si]

Originally Posted by bimmertt

Would you say this is a pretty solid solution or would you recommend that this get fixed at the dealer if warranty is still intact?

I tried this method and it didn't work for me. I took my car into the dealer 3 times.

1st time had the software and then new wastegate actuators replaced.

2nd time they couldn't replicate the rattle. Replaced clutch and driver side muffler though

3rd time...which is basically the 2nd time as when i picked my car up it immediately started rattling. I ran inside and they told me that they would replace my turbos and that they didn't hear the rattle when they had the car. Should be picking the car up today....

So...I would definitely take it in if it is rattling, but make sure you start the car for them and let them hear it. Otherwise, they will claim they couldn't hear the rattle.

[Mr. 5]

Originally Posted by bimmertt

This did it for me. Amazing how much easier things are when you have the right tools.

I did a total of two rotations and still have a very slight rattle. I will do another half rotation tomorrow and see if that completely eliminates it.

Mr. 5, it has been a few years since you posted this. How many times have you had to adjust this rod? Would you say this is a pretty solid solution or would you recommend that this get fixed at the dealer if warranty is still intact?

I'm glad you are happy.
I did it twice, but on 2 sets of turbos.
I did it on my first set and then my wastegate kept sticking so the dealer replaced my turbos.
The day after my second set of turbos were installed, the rear wastegate started to make the sound so I did it again.
That was about 60k miles ago and haven't touched it since.

Originally Posted by 335si

I tried this method and it didn't work for me. I took my car into the dealer 3 times.

1st time had the software and then new wastegate actuators replaced.

2nd time they couldn't replicate the rattle. Replaced clutch and driver side muffler though

3rd time...which is basically the 2nd time as when i picked my car up it immediately started rattling. I ran inside and they told me that they would replace my turbos and that they didn't hear the rattle when they had the car. Should be picking the car up today....

So...I would definitely take it in if it is rattling, but make sure you start the car for them and let them hear it. Otherwise, they will claim they couldn't hear the rattle.

I'm sorry it didn't work for you but I will guarantee you that the front wastegate is ticking and not the rear. If it were the rear then you would have fixed it. This adjustment really is a solution for the rear turbo.
I wish I had a solution for the front turbo but it's almost impossible to get to without dropping the engine and taking the turbo off of the car.

[dcorn]

Took my car in for service and told them about the rattle. SA told me it was normal and there's nothing they can do about it. BS.

Took it in again about a month later for different service at a different dealer and mentioned the rattle again. SA told me they couldn't duplicate the rattle other than one of my control arms being bent and rattling against some kind of heat shield (which they would fix for $600...). What a load of crap. As soon as they pulled my car up after the service, I could hear the rattle from 10 feet away. Plus my friends can distinctly hear the rattle.

I've totally lost all faith in BMW. Been to 3 different dealerships and all of them have had horrible service. Hopefully this DIY fixes the rattle or else I might end up just selling the car. Warranty runs out next week, so I'm pretty much out of chances to get this fixed. I bet if I went in there the week after, they'd recommend replacing the turbos...

[Mr. 5]

Originally Posted by dcorn

I bet if I went in there the week after, they'd recommend replacing the turbos...

LOL. I bet you're right.

[bimmertt]

Originally Posted by 335si

I tried this method and it didn't work for me. I took my car into the dealer 3 times.

Did you notice the rattle coming from closer to the driver side? Or did you notice the rattle lessen at all once you tightened the rear rod?

I think it is pretty strange how the rod for the rear turbo is more susceptible to loosening over time than the rod for the front turbo.

[Mr. 5]

Originally Posted by bimmertt

Did you notice the rattle coming from closer to the driver side? Or did you notice the rattle lessen at all once you tightened the rear rod?

I think it is pretty strange how the rod for the rear turbo is more susceptible to loosening over time than the rod for the front turbo.

The rear turbo get hotter. There's less air flow, but a lot have had the front wastegate tick as well.
The rattle was completely gone when I tightened the rod.
That's why I started this thread.

[Rotorocious]

So what would happen if you tightened them too much?

[bimmertt]

Originally Posted by Rotorocious

So what would happen if you tightened them too much?

I would think the wastegate would stay shut or would not open at normal capacity based on how much you tightened it. I don't know how you would actually be able to tell if the wastegate was stuck shut though.