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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N57 / M57 Turbo Diesel Discussions - 335d > My ProVent 200 Install



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      12-17-2014, 07:25 PM   #1
sukutash
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My ProVent 200 Install

Here are some pics of my provent 200 install on my D. All those that did this before me, thanks. I took that knowledge base and came up with my fabrication. After all it is a fabrication because no kits exist and much thought and effort was put into it. As much of us know, this was an undertaking, and I highly encourage all of us that own D's to do. In the first 1,000 miles, I effectively filtered 4-5 oz of oil out of my intake system. As I've stated before, it's the quality of the CCV device that will render effective filtration of the CCV gases. I've got the .5" reinforced clear vinyl tubing draining out the bottom of the Provent 200, through a pet cock valve, via a cut out in the lower engine bay cover. This makes it very easy when it comes to draining the filtered out oil.

I've been without engine cover since day 1, currently at 94,000 miles. I always thought the car was too quite, and this helped slightly. Decided to remove the engine bay cowling along with cabin air filter while doing the CCV system install, and installed the BMS filters. The engine can now be PROPERLY heard, just how I like it.
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      12-18-2014, 08:19 AM   #2
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Looks good, effectively functional! Can you explain how you made the connection to the OE oil separator, the part that looks like a hockey puck? I've been eyeing that up as a future mod for my system but have been unsure how to effectively make a connection there? Parts used? Thanks!
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      12-18-2014, 12:02 PM   #3
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I was wondering the same. Also, the electrical connectors that plugged into the end of that tube.. it looks like they are wire tied to a bracket. Are they connected?

Where does the outlet tube dump?

Thanks for the pics!
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      12-18-2014, 12:44 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark M View Post
Looks good, effectively functional! Can you explain how you made the connection to the OE oil separator, the part that looks like a hockey puck? I've been eyeing that up as a future mod for my system but have been unsure how to effectively make a connection there? Parts used? Thanks!
That part of the fab was the most challenging. I tried multiple methods, but knew that the OEM plastic tube that routed the CCV gases fwd to the turbo inlet HAD TO GO in order to have space for the routing of the Provent tubing. What I ended up using, as shown, is a GMC PCV grommet and GMC coolant hose coupling. Its not the type of connection I prefer, but it does not leak and functions 100%. There may be other revisions to this area in the future.
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      12-18-2014, 01:05 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 9mmkungfu View Post
I was wondering the same. Also, the electrical connectors that plugged into the end of that tube.. it looks like they are wire tied to a bracket. Are they connected?

Where does the outlet tube dump?

Thanks for the pics!
The hard plastic vent pipe that routes the gases fwd to the turbo inlet piping, has a spring clip disconnect for the tube AND an electrical connector that mates together in one big plastic housing. Electrically, this connector serves simply as a jumper, completing the circuit so that the system knows that the UPPER part of the hose is mated properly and not by passed or removed. In order to eliminate the need to have this sensor in my fab, I removed the sensor from the plastic piece that mates into the hard plastic vent tube. I then inserted a 3" piece of jumper wire into the two electrical sockets of the connector, which completed the circuit. The other end of the flexible hose going into the turbo inlet remains connected. When removing the flex hose, it literally tore in half and was severely brittle from the close proximity to turbo heat.

The oil drain on the Provent is .5". I ran a 3', .5" ID piece of reinforced vinyl tubing all the way down to an OEM cutout in the lower engine bay cover. A petcock drain valve makes draining very easy while laying down in front of the car with a cup in about 5 min.
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      12-18-2014, 01:18 PM   #6
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Heres a pic used from another forum member for visual reference only. The electrical connector can easily be removed from the plastic connector housing by prying the jaws open and rotating the connector 90 degrees. The jumper can then be installed, the connector zip tied to an adjacent structure and avoid the electrical police.
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      12-19-2014, 03:50 PM   #7
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What are the benefits of this mod?
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      12-19-2014, 06:30 PM   #8
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You are essentially diverting the crank case vent (CCV) gasses into a filtration device, removing oil mist from the intake air and all associated components in the intake path. I wish I'd done this 90,000 miles ago.
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      12-19-2014, 08:21 PM   #9
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Great product! I use it on a myriad of different diesels, and its a mann product so you know its quality!

Good choice!
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      12-22-2014, 01:18 PM   #10
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If the ProVent gets all the oil, this should prevent intake fouling without the need of disabling the EGR, and no SES light. When I had my VW TDI, many members of TDIClub did what's called the "elephant hose" mod. It consisted of capping the turbo inlet pipe, and then routing hose like yours to a catch can somewhere lower on the frame, and skip the ProVent. That mod worked on the VW and took up a lot less space.

Now that we know what that electrical connector does, it opens up a lot of possibilities. I wonder if an open vent and catch can would provide adequate crank case ventilation, or does it depend on suction from the turbo inlet pipe?

Do you expect the ProVent to catch 100% of the oil?

Are those BMS cowl filters you are using??

Thanks for the excellent write-up.
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      12-22-2014, 05:27 PM   #11
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Would this work in addition to, or in place of, a oil catch can?
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      12-22-2014, 09:53 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by locolobo View Post
If the ProVent gets all the oil, this should prevent intake fouling without the need of disabling the EGR, and no SES light. When I had my VW TDI, many members of TDIClub did what's called the "elephant hose" mod. It consisted of capping the turbo inlet pipe, and then routing hose like yours to a catch can somewhere lower on the frame, and skip the ProVent. That mod worked on the VW and took up a lot less space.

Now that we know what that electrical connector does, it opens up a lot of possibilities. I wonder if an open vent and catch can would provide adequate crank case ventilation, or does it depend on suction from the turbo inlet pipe?

Do you expect the ProVent to catch 100% of the oil?

Are those BMS cowl filters you are using??

Thanks for the excellent write-up.

I think that an atmospheric bypass would not be sufficient enough for our application. I believe that the vacuum created by the turbo is designed to facilitate the evacuation of the blow by gasses. Unfortunately, this along with EGR, is satisfying a government requirment at the expense of the consumer.

So far I've driven 4K+ miles since the provent. The filtered/outlet/lower tube has barely any oil residue. This friggin thing works! I just wish I did it 90,000 miles ago. Currently I've got my D disassembled doing the intake manifold and swirl flap cleaning. Let me tell you, that the words dirty and grimey, are putting it nicely.

Yes those are the BMS filters.

Thanks and DO IT! ASAP!

Last edited by sukutash; 12-22-2014 at 10:00 PM..
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      12-23-2014, 05:40 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Austin335D View Post
Would this work in addition to, or in place of, a oil catch can?
He's using the ProVent 200 as an oil catch can.
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      12-23-2014, 09:19 AM   #14
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I know on a petrol making sure oil vapour doesn't enter the intake system is a really good idea (lowers octain number) but does this have the same effect with diesels? Or is this for another reason?
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      12-23-2014, 09:46 AM   #15
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On Diesels' the crankcase vapor is laced with oil droplets and moisture. This then combines with EGR soot and creates a tar like sludge that lines the walls of the intake and cylinder head venturies. Over time the intakes become clogged up and creates the dreaded Carbon Build Up we all talk about.

The best fix at this time is to use a Catch can like the Provent and also block the EGR.
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      12-23-2014, 08:52 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark M View Post
On Diesels' the crankcase vapor is laced with oil droplets and moisture. This then combines with EGR soot and creates a tar like sludge that lines the walls of the intake and cylinder head venturies. Over time the intakes become clogged up and creates the dreaded Carbon Build Up we all talk about.

The best fix at this time is to use a Catch can like the Provent and also block the EGR.
Dont forget oil in dpf systems is not a good thing. Oil doesn't break down and the ash will plug up the dpf at some point. Thus the need for low ash oil, still produces ash... the pro vent is a nice product and will filter the oil quite nicely!
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      12-23-2014, 09:58 PM   #17
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I do have a question. Do you vent the PCV out of the block or do you just filter and complete the cycle?

If all we need to do is jumper the connectors to fool the system into thinking this is still cycling through the intake I'd do it in a heartbeat.

Is there any negative to not having that pressure there and venting to the atmosphere?
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      12-23-2014, 10:24 PM   #18
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Diesels for years have had the pcv/ccv just drain on the ground, then with emissions systems and environmental implications etc they started recycling the oil through the intake.
You can plumb it back in to the intake or vent to atmosphere. Don't really think you need the vacuum to relieve the pressure, atmosphere is significantly less than the blow by pressure.
Typically the provent is installed in line and the whole purpose is to filter the oil, it comes with little tiny filters and does a fantastic job. They have applications up to 500-600 hp levels.
Is there any negative impact? not really other that environmental concerns. Should be able to jump the lead, dont think its can bus based sensor. You don't even need to filter just vent to atmosphere and voila! That being said it does bring up a whole moral debate of tampering with emissions devices etc, for reliability, fuel economy etc..
Not going to open that can of worms.
Sorry my response wasn't well organized but hopefully it answered your question.
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      12-24-2014, 10:12 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sukutash View Post
What I ended up using, as shown, is a GMC PCV grommet and GMC coolant hose coupling. Its not the type of connection I prefer.....
Can you provide part numbers for the GMC components you mention please? I installed the kit from 135i_vs but had thought long and hard about the Provent 200.

I didn't go for it due to mount location being too crowded without removing the airbox. I wanted to remove air box and convert over to the open air cleaner element (Greek, I am still wanting to imitate yours) to make room. Company that built Greek's wanted $500 so I had to walk away from the Provent 200.

EDIT: I dug this up from TDI's consideration of this same product. 25mm= 1" inlet and outlet.
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File Type: pdf provent_200_specifications.pdf (41.8 KB, 657 views)

Last edited by BB_cuda; 12-24-2014 at 10:30 AM..
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      12-24-2014, 10:25 AM   #20
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It does. Thank you. I have some experimenting to do.
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      12-25-2014, 01:51 PM   #21
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cool cool , iv got my EGR coded shut , and binned the dpf , should be fine lol
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      02-17-2015, 03:43 PM   #22
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Great Job

Thanks for sharing your nice install.

What type and size of hoses did you use?
What size of insulated hose clamps did you use to mount the bracket to the strut tower brace?
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