[shirtpants_]

Originally Posted by justpete

Thanks for bringing this up, scrub radius is something everyone seems to skip over. It's one of the reasons I suggested Vorshlag camber plates earlier in the thread and why they were the first mod to the steering on my car. Currently running -3.8* but with 12mm spacers and maximum caster. Had SAI checked after the previous stages of alignments to make sure steering was always stable.

Nice, most people completely forget all that other stuff that comes with changing one part of the alignment, looks like you did it right.

Ideally we would have some option of fully adjustable UCA's, and LCA's, but the only ones i've found are from bimmerworld, and they're all unsealed spherical bearings... Probably not the best for a street car...

Looks like camber plates, coilovers, spacers, and m3 control arms are all going on at the same time for me...

-3.8 degrees of camber? is that the max you can get with the plates

[justpete]

Originally Posted by shirtpants_

Nice, most people completely forget all that other stuff that comes with changing one part of the alignment, looks like you did it right.

Ideally we would have some option of fully adjustable UCA's, and LCA's, but the only ones i've found are from bimmerworld, and they're all unsealed spherical bearings... Probably not the best for a street car...

Looks like camber plates, coilovers, and m3 control arms are all going on at the same time...

-3.8 degrees of camber? is that the max you can get with the plates

Yeah, those are the only ones I can find too. The shop just builds their own. I can't think they're all that useful without Aurora Performance Race spherical bearings though. And you could use Seals-It seals, that's what I use on the toe arms on my car. >10K miles on the street and no issues.

Yep, that's the max I can get and we had to grind away part of the raised lip on the inboard side to clear the hex nut on the strut. But this is at 7* caster, haven't moved it to max positive yet but that's currently on the statement of work for the shop.

With the 18x8.5 Apex Arc-8 wheels and 12mm spacers the front fenders had to be rolled and pulled with this camber. Tires are Toyo R1R 255/35R18 (I think) which have kinda square-ish tread.

[shirtpants_]

Originally Posted by justpete

Yeah, those are the only ones I can find too. The shop just builds their own. I can't think they're all that useful without Aurora Performance Race spherical bearings though. And you could use Seals-It seals, that's what I use on the toe arms on my car. >10K miles on the street and no issues.

Yep, that's the max I can get and we had to grind away part of the raised lip on the inboard side to clear the hex nut on the strut. But this is at 7* caster, haven't moved it to max positive yet but that's currently on the statement of work for the shop.

With the 18x8.5 Apex Arc-8 wheels and 12mm spacers the front fenders had to be rolled and pulled with this camber. Tires are Toyo R1R 255/35R18 (I think) which have kinda square-ish tread.

Yeah, I was thinking the PTFE lined race bearings would be better than what bimmerworld supplies, but there's so many options i really don't know which ones i'd go with. But then i'd have to go through all this trouble just to get adjustable arms on a DD street car that only sees a handful of track days a year...

I was looking at the seals-it seals too, found out about them looking at rogue engineering's adjustable toe arms.
The small rod ends seals look like they should work pretty well, but the boots that go over the whole end look like they'd just trap dirt inside the bearing...

You have any significant nvh from the toe arms? If the NVH is bearable, ill probably end up with the spherical bearing kit at some point, if the seals it's have lasted at least 10k on your toe arms, they should do pretty good on the front arms...

BTW, this website might help figuring out how much caster/camber you want, and what that affects, without having to hang around the alignment shop all day...
http://www.racingaspirations.com/app...try-calculator

[justpete]

Originally Posted by shirtpants_

Yeah, I was thinking the PTFE lined race bearings would be better than what bimmerworld supplies, but there's so many options i really don't know which ones i'd go with. But then i'd have to go through all this trouble just to get adjustable arms on a DD street car that only sees a handful of track days a year...

I was looking at the seals-it seals too, found out about them looking at rogue engineering's adjustable toe arms.
The small rod ends seals look like they should work pretty well, but the boots that go over the whole end look like they'd just trap dirt inside the bearing...

You have any significant nvh from the toe arms? If the NVH is bearable, ill probably end up with the spherical bearing kit at some point, if the seals it's have lasted at least 10k on your toe arms, they should do pretty good on the front arms...

BTW, this website might help figuring out how much caster/camber you want, and what that affects, without having to hang around the alignment shop all day...
http://www.racingaspirations.com/app...try-calculator

Thanks for the link to the calculator site, looks like it'll be helpful! I've been going for full max positive caster to get max dynamic camber for best turn-in. Not concerned how it runs on the street, I've left it in the track setup all the time with front toe out, etc. and it's all good.

I wouldn't go out of my way to do all this for a DD, definitely not worth the money. And NVH is not zero. You can hear the toe arm spherical bearings pop and groan at low speeds. I like it cuz racecar.

[shirtpants_]

Originally Posted by justpete

Thanks for the link to the calculator site, looks like it'll be helpful! I've been going for full max positive caster to get max dynamic camber for best turn-in. Not concerned how it runs on the street, I've left it in the track setup all the time with front toe out, etc. and it's all good.

I wouldn't go out of my way to do all this for a DD, definitely not worth the money. And NVH is not zero. You can hear the toe arm spherical bearings pop and groan at low speeds. I like it cuz racecar.

BMW's already have pretty high caster settings, I think i read somewhere that the max for plates was something like 8 or 9 degrees... You've already got almost 4 degrees of neg camber, the ligher 328 engine up front, some toe out, and 255 barely street legal tires up front... turn in grip is gonna be insane!

Yeah, I gotcha. You're right, adjustable spherical bearings really have no place on a street car, so ill stay away from that kind of stuff.

Of course I'd like to say i'll do all this crazy stuff, but I know ill only end up doing coils, m3 arms, and camber plates. The suspension geometry stuff sure is interesting though...

Thanks for the advice!

[justpete]

Originally Posted by shirtpants_

Yeah, I was thinking the PTFE lined race bearings would be better than what bimmerworld supplies, but there's so many options i really don't know which ones i'd go with. But then i'd have to go through all this trouble just to get adjustable arms on a DD street car that only sees a handful of track days a year...

FWIW, Aurora Performance Race spherical bearings p/n AB-PRMT-10-R and -L are the parts I used on the RE toe arms. Got 'em from Pegasus along with the Seals-It parts.

[justpete]

Originally Posted by shirtpants_

BMW's already have pretty high caster settings, I think i read somewhere that the max for plates was something like 8 or 9 degrees... You've already got almost 4 degrees of neg camber, the ligher 328 engine up front, some toe out, and 255 barely street legal tires up front... turn in grip is gonna be insane!

Yeah, I gotcha. You're right, adjustable spherical bearings really have no place on a street car, so ill stay away from that kind of stuff.

Of course I'd like to say i'll do all this crazy stuff, but I know ill only end up doing coils, m3 arms, and camber plates. The suspension geometry stuff sure is interesting though...

Thanks for the advice!

Always glad to help out, this stuff just keeps getting more complicated the deeper I dig. Thanks for the help as well, didn't know about that calculator.

Turn-in grip is pretty insane, it was enough to overcome the pushing the 2-way LSD was producing. It's at PG now getting rebuilt as a sixth generation track LSD with 30/60 ramps and more clutches for higher static lockup. Dropping the ratio from 3.73 to 3.91, too. Jim's modifying the cover and welding in the fittings that shipped with my LSD so it'll be a drop-in with the new diff cooler that got installed a couple of weeks ago, or so.

With the new diff and max caster it oughta corner like a sumbitch now. At least it'll be a lot easier to induce rotation and drift turns. Possible now, just takes a lot of on-the-edge effort.

[LMB335IS]

I'll just take my -1.2 camber ass over to the corner and be quiet now. You guys are way above my pay grade on this. I will say with my mods it's a MUCH better driving car than before. No track days in the future but I do enjoy a trip to the Dragon when possible.

[shirtpants_]

Originally Posted by justpete

Always glad to help out, this stuff just keeps getting more complicated the deeper I dig. Thanks for the help as well, didn't know about that calculator.

Turn-in grip is pretty insane, it was enough to overcome the pushing the 2-way LSD was producing. It's at PG now getting rebuilt as a sixth generation track LSD with 30/60 ramps and more clutches for higher static lockup. Dropping the ratio from 3.73 to 3.91, too. Jim's modifying the cover and welding in the fittings that shipped with my LSD so it'll be a drop-in with the new diff cooler that got installed a couple of weeks ago, or so.

With the new diff and max caster it oughta corner like a sumbitch now. At least it'll be a lot easier to induce rotation and drift turns. Possible now, just takes a lot of on-the-edge effort.

Yep, things are always way more complicated than you thought, and nothings ever easy.
I don't know too much about the technical side of LSD's, gotta do more research before I really know what I'm talking about.
Damn, you need a diff cooler. You must drive that thing hard!

[Rodny]

Maybe I just need to leave it like it is!! LOL

Thanks Guys!!

[feuer]

Originally Posted by justpete

my LSD so it'll be a drop-in with the new diff cooler

I really hope you will have some photos for us. As far as I know it will be the first non M e9x with differential cooler.

[justpete]

Originally Posted by feuer

I really hope you will have some photos for us. As far as I know it will be the first non M e9x with differential cooler.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...&postcount=154

Will have more after the diff comes back and gets installed and connected.

[justpete]

Originally Posted by shirtpants_

Yep, things are always way more complicated than you thought, and nothings ever easy.
I don't know too much about the technical side of LSD's, gotta do more research before I really know what I'm talking about.
Damn, you need a diff cooler. You must drive that thing hard!

Yeah, for track use a diff cooler is a really good idea. Jim would've recommended one if I hadn't told him I was already getting one installed. His main concern otherwise was that the total fluid volume be at least 3L, which it is. The clutches take a lot of abuse during high speed hard cornering so sort of a necessity when running a Salisbury type LSD.

[justpete]

Originally Posted by Rodny

Maybe I just need to leave it like it is!! LOL

Thanks Guys!!

No worries, these cars are great at the track bone stock. Enjoy!

[HP Autosport]

Rear guide rods will be worth the upgrade just for the bearing replacing a rubber bushing. The upper link won't do a whole lot other being a bit lighter.