[GripAndRip]

They are on!!! I've begun breaking the pads in and I have a few comments already. I've read several threads on here complaining about brake noise associated with drilled/slotted rotors. I'm not sure if I'm a lucky one or not, but there is absolutely no noise. No rubbing, clicking, or really any noise at all. I've heard people say you can hear it when you drive by walls or in parking garages. I haven't had a chance to be in those scenarios, but I can say I had all windows down and heard nothing. They are quiet which is a plus.

I haven't heard any squeaking but that would be the pads, not the rotors. Everything was installed correctly, and if I break the pads in properly over these next 500 miles, there shouldn't really ever be a squeaking.

I don't have "show" through wheels (yet) but they look good even through my stockers. The only downside...... if you have applied G2 caliper paint, be careful or you'll end up needing to do touch up like I will have to. This isn't even a negative on the brakes as this is just related to any rotor change brake job.

I'll post a few more updates as break-in winds down. I have to take some 3rd gear pull logs so I'm sure I'll have a chance to push the brakes some. But I'm also gonna be gently for a week or so here.

Lastly, some have said that the oem pads have more bite. I haven't had a chance to test stopping distance fully, but I feel as though the pads might have slightly less initial bite. I have a feeling the stopping power of the rotor/pad is better, just that initial bite is less.

Quick and dirty:

They are on.
They look great.
No noise.
No issues.
Rotor warp/wobble issue is gone.
Good stopping power.

See you guys as time goes on!

[BSM n54iS]

Looks good!

[r1concepts]

Originally Posted by GripAndRip

They are on!!! I've begun breaking the pads in and I have a few comments already. I've read several threads on here complaining about brake noise associated with drilled/slotted rotors. I'm not sure if I'm a lucky one or not, but there is absolutely no noise. No rubbing, clicking, or really any noise at all. I've heard people say you can hear it when you drive by walls or in parking garages. I haven't had a chance to be in those scenarios, but I can say I had all windows down and heard nothing. They are quiet which is a plus.

I haven't heard any squeaking but that would be the pads, not the rotors. Everything was installed correctly, and if I break the pads in properly over these next 500 miles, there shouldn't really ever be a squeaking.

I don't have "show" through wheels (yet) but they look good even through my stockers. The only downside...... if you have applied G2 caliper paint, be careful or you'll end up needing to do touch up like I will have to. This isn't even a negative on the brakes as this is just related to any rotor change brake job.

I'll post a few more updates as break-in winds down. I have to take some 3rd gear pull logs so I'm sure I'll have a chance to push the brakes some. But I'm also gonna be gently for a week or so here.

Lastly, some have said that the oem pads have more bite. I haven't had a chance to test stopping distance fully, but I feel as though the pads might have slightly less initial bite. I have a feeling the stopping power of the rotor/pad is better, just that initial bite is less.

Quick and dirty:

They are on.
They look great.
No noise.
No issues.
Rotor warp/wobble issue is gone.
Good stopping power.

See you guys as time goes on!

Appreciate the review! Want to mention since you did receive ceramic brake pads in the kit which are great for low brake dust and noise, you will lose the initial brake bite that the OEM pads provided since it's a softer compound.

[GripAndRip]

Originally Posted by r1concepts

Appreciate the review! Want to mention since you did receive ceramic brake pads in the kit which are great for low brake dust and noise, you will lose the initial brake bite that the OEM pads provided since it's a softer compound.

I might make a switch to different pads when the time comes to change pads just to test that out! Honestly i don't know why people complain about the "bite". It's not like night and day. I may just barely feel a difference or it may just be placebo.

Only a few days in and these things are killing it! Still no noise, still stopping hard, and still getting compliments on the change.

[GripAndRip]

No Noise ✓
No Fade ✓
No Problems ✓

The brakes are holding up perfectly. They definitely bite just fine. I have zero complaints. For anyone looking to add the aggressive race brake look to their car, I would go for these. Well worth it.

Warning: If you don't have show-through rims, you'll probably start looking to buy them haha.

[Atx328]

I have a set of these rotors that I am running with the Euro akebono pads. They don't dust at all and they give a very progress feel that is totally predictable and directly related to the amount of pressure that you apply on the stop pedal.

I have received multiple compliments on the looks as I am running 400M wheels which do an awesome job of showing off the brakes.

It does take a stop or two to get adjusted when I have been driving the wife's f30 m sport because her oem pads have a ridiculous amount of initial bite. But they also dust up like they are performing an impression of Pigpen from the Peanuts comics.

[MrAC]

What's the difference between the eline vs premium? Why did you decide to go with premium?

Does the eline look as cool as the premiums? lol

[GripAndRip]

Originally Posted by MrAC

What's the difference between the eline vs premium? Why did you decide to go with premium?

Does the eline look as cool as the premiums? lol

I'll let r1concepts fully answer this.

If you go to their site they have a lot of comparison charts showing difference between levels.

From a glance, the drilled and slot density is higher which make the brakes look more like a bbk or race kit. Less drill and less slot looks kinda cheap to me in my opinion. There is twice as many drill holes compared to the eline and I think there are more slots too. If the holes can be directly related to heat dissipation, you can assume the p line is better for intense braking for track scenarios or if you are a heavy brake user. More holes and slot = less brake fade.

The p line also have the rotor center painted/coated black which looks better in my opinion too.

I'm sure there is a lot more to be added in this comparison.

[VincentCloudX07]

So, I'm looking to replace my front as a kit and am questioning as to whether or not this is the best option. Would you say these are on par if not better then OEM?

I was quoted $370 for parts at the dealership. Saw the R1 rep on here, is that code still available for 20% off? That plus the look might be a decision maker for me.

[GripAndRip]

Originally Posted by VincentCloudX07

So, I'm looking to replace my front as a kit and am questioning as to whether or not this is the best option. Would you say these are on par if not better then OEM?

I was quoted $370 for parts at the dealership. Saw the R1 rep on here, is that code still available for 20% off? That plus the look might be a decision maker for me.

I'm sure the code is still a thing and I got my discount through the sales rep on the site... I was later informed that going through the rep on e90 post might help you even more.

These at the least on par with oem. I'd say they are better by far.

[MrAC]

thanks for the response.

Yea I tried finding a picture comparison of the eline xdrilled rotors vs the premium xdrilled rotors. no luck

But anyways, the ones you just put on are looking good!

Originally Posted by GripAndRip

I'll let r1concepts fully answer this.

If you go to their site they have a lot of comparison charts showing difference between levels.

From a glance, the drilled and slot density is higher which make the brakes look more like a bbk or race kit. Less drill and less slot looks kinda cheap to me in my opinion. There is twice as many drill holes compared to the eline and I think there are more slots too. If the holes can be directly related to heat dissipation, you can assume the p line is better for intense braking for track scenarios or if you are a heavy brake user. More holes and slot = less brake fade.

The p line also have the rotor center painted/coated black which looks better in my opinion too.

I'm sure there is a lot more to be added in this comparison.

[GripAndRip]

Originally Posted by MrAC

thanks for the response.

Yea I tried finding a picture comparison of the eline xdrilled rotors vs the premium xdrilled rotors. no luck

But anyways, the ones you just put on are looking good!

Looking back on it, there is noticeable difference when it's xdrilled and slotted. That is when there is double the drill density. If you get xdrilled only it looks like they have the same hole density.

See the attached for the difference between the two series for xdrilled and slotted.

[VincentCloudX07]

Originally Posted by GripAndRip

Looking back on it, there is noticeable difference when it's xdrilled and slotted. That is when there is double the drill density. If you get xdrilled only it looks like they have the same hole density.

See the attached for the difference between the two series for xdrilled and slotted.

My worry with the drilled, especially the premium you showed in the picture is;
1. Drilled significantly reduces the life span of the pads
2. Rotors are much more susceptible to cracking and lifespan isn't that long due to that very factor compared to non-drilled. Thoughts?

[GripAndRip]

Originally Posted by VincentCloudX07

My worry with the drilled, especially the premium you showed in the picture is;
1. Drilled significantly reduces the life span of the pads
2. Rotors are much more susceptible to cracking and lifespan isn't that long due to that very factor compared to non-drilled. Thoughts?

Drilled will certainly lower the lifespan of the pads. You can increase the life of your pads by going with semi-metallic or harder material pads. You will also gain more "bite" but the trade off is brake dust. On the topic of brake dust, there is literally zero dusting so far

If you are worried about stress cracks, I think you have to put some serious thermal onto the rotors to cause this. You have to either be towing, driving down steep inclines regularly to need heavy braking, or do very intense track driving all the time. The life may be slightly decreased, but with regular braking you probably won't see an issue. I'll knock on wood just in case . They also chamfer the drilled holes which helps stop cracking. The sharper an angle is cut, the chance of cracking significantly increases. I don't think you will see stress cracks in the life of the rotor. Maybe if you stretch beyond the oem life you might.

[Torqu3]

I just want to update that I had drilled and slotted rotors on the front and rear. They were the E-line rotors. After 3 months I was getting some significant shaking when braking. They were only daily driven on, so it's understandable they would warp due to how the rotors are made to work. Got in touch with the Rep on here and he was amazing with sending me a new set of front rotors, and even sent me solid rotors instead, since I decided I was just going to stick with solid. I'll recommend R1 to everyone.

[GripAndRip]

Originally Posted by Torqu3

I just want to update that I had drilled and slotted rotors on the front and rear. They were the E-line rotors. After 3 months I was getting some significant shaking when braking. They were only daily driven on, so it's understandable they would warp due to how the rotors are made to work. Got in touch with the Rep on here and he was amazing with sending me a new set of front rotors, and even sent me solid rotors instead, since I decided I was just going to stick with solid. I'll recommend R1 to everyone.

That's odd that you warped them that fast. I wonder if P line have less chance of that. I don't have any issues so far. I wonder if it was a fluke. Did the solid rotors fix your issue?

[Torqu3]

Originally Posted by GripAndRip

That's odd that you warped them that fast. I wonder if P line have less chance of that. I don't have any issues so far. I wonder if it was a fluke. Did the solid rotors fix your issue?

I actually didn't put on the new rotors they sent me. I still had my solid OE rotors laying around so I went ahead and put them back on. They were well within spec. The new rotors are just sitting in my garage either to be sold to someone else or I'll throw them on my car when I have some time. I have no doubt they'll be fantastic, and I learned that a rotor job can easily be under 2 hours for all 4. I'll just have to see what happens.

[r1concepts]

Originally Posted by MrAC

What's the difference between the eline vs premium? Why did you decide to go with premium?

Does the eline look as cool as the premiums? lol

Our E-line rotors are manufactured with a G3000 iron grade metallurgy. These rotors are coated is a silver finish to prevent it from rusting (excludes E-line OE Replacement rotors). Double disc grinding provides smoother and quieter braking, while reducing vibration and the time required for break-in. Rotors are mill balanced for long-lasting durability.

Premier rotors are manufactured using more carbon, chromium, and molybdenum. These high carbon rotors offer increased performance and strength. A center split core casting provides greater stability. A black electro coating is applied only on the center hub, inner vane structure, and outer rim of the rotor for rust protection. Just like the E-lines, mill balancing and double disc grinding reduces thickness variations for smoother stopping, minimal vibration, and improved break-in.

On a side note, our E-lines come single drilled & slotted vs the Premiers come double drilled & slotted. We offer the Premiers to most of the forum members not just on here but on all the other forums we're on as well since we want to give you guys the best quality rotors we have to offer.

Originally Posted by VincentCloudX07

So, I'm looking to replace my front as a kit and am questioning as to whether or not this is the best option. Would you say these are on par if not better then OEM?

I was quoted $370 for parts at the dealership. Saw the R1 rep on here, is that code still available for 20% off? That plus the look might be a decision maker for me.

To answer you questions, the E-lines are more comparable to the OEM rotors. If you're looking for something better, the Premier rotors are the best way to go. In order to get the price pricing on our parts, it's best to PM me directly and I'll do my best to help you out. PM sent!

[GripAndRip]

The rotors and pads have been performing perfectly. However, I do have a complaint now. The rotors and pads have only been on the car for what is about to be 3 months. The rotors are already rusting. There is rust build-up in the slots and in the drilled locations. There is also a ring of rust around the start of the hub.

Any advice on how to remove rust before it spreads? Is this normal? Especially that quick?

[BSM n54iS]

Probably just have to take the wheel off and go in there with a wire brush attachment on the drill and clean it out

Originally Posted by GripAndRip

The rotors and pads have been performing perfectly. However, I do have a complaint now. The rotors and pads have only been on the car for what is about to be 3 months. The rotors are already rusting. There is rust build-up in the slots and in the drilled locations. There is also a ring of rust around the start of the hub.

Any advice on how to remove rust before it spreads? Is this normal? Especially that quick?

[r1concepts]

Originally Posted by GripAndRip

The rotors and pads have been performing perfectly. However, I do have a complaint now. The rotors and pads have only been on the car for what is about to be 3 months. The rotors are already rusting. There is rust build-up in the slots and in the drilled locations. There is also a ring of rust around the start of the hub.

Any advice on how to remove rust before it spreads? Is this normal? Especially that quick?

This is normal since the rotors have a rust protection coating that's applied only on the center hub, inner vane structure, and outer rim of the rotor which is a black electro coating. You can use a wire brush to clean out the holes, however it's just going to come back once exposed to water.

One way to have the drilled holes and slots protected from rust is to use a high temp caliper spray paint (black), and spray the entire surface of the rotors. This is the easiest way to prevent parts of the rotor from not rusting along with the ring of rust as well.

[GripAndRip]

Originally Posted by r1concepts

This is normal since the rotors have a rust protection coating that's applied only on the center hub, inner vane structure, and outer rim of the rotor which is a black electro coating. You can use a wire brush to clean out the holes, however it's just going to come back once exposed to water.

One way to have the drilled holes and slots protected from rust is to use a high temp caliper spray paint (black), and spray the entire surface of the rotors. This is the easiest way to prevent parts of the rotor from not rusting along with the ring of rust as well.

Thanks! As long as it's normal! Thank you for the reply and some solutions. I do want to say the performance of the rotors and pads have been perfect.