[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by Segments

Yep, I had two new rotor set screws ready to go. I dont believe I have something strong enough to drill through the extractor tip which is certainly in the way.

Ah, I read pretty quick and didn't see the extractor had snapped. The front wheel bearing comes pre-assembled with the flange and bolts onto the wheel carrier with four big (4) bolts. Super easy to remove and install an new wheel hub/bearing. Not sure what they are going for these days, but I think a OEM version is about $45 to $60. Probably cheaper than converting to wheel studs.

I see the reason for wheel studs if you are racing, but with a street car maybe a bit overkill, and I'm leery of the studs loosing torque over time. Seems like extra work to check the torque on the studs, then put the nuts down to 88 lb.-ft.

[Segments]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

Ah, I read pretty quick and didn't see the extractor had snapped. The front wheel bearing comes pre-assembled with the flange and bolts onto the wheel carrier with four big (4) bolts. Super easy to remove and install an new wheel hub/bearing. Not sure what they are going for these days, but I think a OEM version is about $45 to $60. Probably cheaper than converting to wheel studs.

I see the reason for wheel studs if you are racing, but with a street car maybe a bit overkill, and I'm leery of the studs loosing torque over time. Seems like extra work to check the torque on the studs, then put the nuts down to 88 lb.-ft.

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

Just drill through it. The threaded hole it sits in is a thru-hole through the hub flange. It's really not that critical.

That said, after many years wrenching BMW brakes, I've learned three things about the rotor screws: (1) even if you buy a new BMW, first thing is remove the wheels and remove the rotor screws and apply anti-seize to them, then reinstall; (b) get new rotor screws when you do a brake job; and (c) do not use a cheap-ass L-bar Allen wrench, use a T-wrench, or better yet a butterfly impact air-wrench.

I will check that out as well man much appreciated.

[PhaseP]

Best tool for stubborn rusted screws like rotor hold down is a manual hammer driven impact driver, like this one (I own a different one, just putting the link as example):

https://www.homedepot.com/p/TEKTON-3...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

[Segments]

Originally Posted by PhaseP

Best tool for stubborn rusted screws like rotor hold down is a manual hammer driven impact driver, like this one (I own a different one, just putting the link as example):

https://www.homedepot.com/p/TEKTON-3...8;gclsrc=aw.ds

Yeah I was reading about that, unfortunately I dont know if it will work with the extractor tip still in there.

[PhaseP]

Yeah I was reading about that, unfortunately I dont know if it will work with the extractor tip still in there.

It is too late for that, this tool is useful before the screw head is stripped

If you really had to remove the screw, drilling out from behind would be easiest as mentioned already, but as mentioned already too, that screw is not functional. It only aids during assembly, many cars don't use it. As long as the surface is flat for the rotor to seat on, you don't need to remove what is left there.

[Segments]

Originally Posted by PhaseP

It is too late for that, this tool is useful before the screw head is stripped

If you really had to remove the screw, drilling out from behind would be easiest as mentioned already, but as mentioned already too, that screw is not functional. It only aids during assembly, many cars don't use it. As long as the surface is flat for the rotor to seat on, you don't need to remove what is left there.

Yep, I will definitely grab one of thosr for the future though !

[PhaseP]

Also for future reference, drilling out a screw/bolt with a left handed drill bit can be better than using an extractor. Because most often the left handed drill bit will grab and remove the fastener during drilling.

If you go from behind, right handed (regular) drill bit will do the same.

Harbor Freight has a set which is very decent quality in my experience:

https://www.harborfreight.com/left-h...-pc-61686.html

For corroded fasteners you need:

- Heat
- Hammer/Impact/Shock
- Patience
- Persistence
- Penetrating oil

Never use brute force, especially steady state applied, something breaks instead of getting loose.

[Segments]

Originally Posted by PhaseP

Also for future reference, drilling out a screw/bolt with a left handed drill bit can be better than using an extractor. Because most often the left handed drill bit will grab and remove the fastener during drilling.

If you go from behind, right handed (regular) drill bit will do the same.

Harbor Freight has a set which is very decent quality in my experience:

https://www.harborfreight.com/left-h...-pc-61686.html

For corroded fasteners you need:

- Heat
- Hammer/Impact/Shock
- Patience
- Persistence
- Penetrating oil

Never use brute force, especially steady state applied, something breaks instead of getting loose.

I appreciate the words of advice I will be referencing bCk to this the next time the world hates me 🤣

[mweisdorfer]

It can be drilled out, you just need a very expensive drill bit & some drill oil.

You need an Omega Drill bit

That's what is used to drill out broken taps.

Then you will need to tap the new hole & find a screw to fit it

[nsjames]

Originally Posted by Segments

I appreciate the words of advice I will be referencing bCk to this the next time the world hates me ��

removing broken bolts is sometimes an art.

I own many things to get it done.

left twist drill bits are the first thing you do when you've committed to drilling a bolt out.

extractors are the absolute last resort, because as you found out, they break off and now you've got hardened metal in there.

see here for tips.

[Segments]

Originally Posted by nsjames

removing broken bolts is sometimes an art.

I own many things to get it done.

left twist drill bits are the first thing you do when you've committed to drilling a bolt out.

extractors are the absolute last resort, because as you found out, they break off and now you've got hardened metal in there.

see here for tips.

As embarassing as it is for me to say this, I initially went to the store for a L handed bit and came home with an extractor. But its a lesson learned and luckily the rotor set screw is an easily ignored mistake haha.

[marvinstockman]

Listen to everyone who's told you to leave it alone. My '98 M3 came with a 'liner upper' tool for just such a happening, but any piece of right sized metal rod will work fine.

[jmnew911]

when I changed rotors in my son’s 2008 328i I had to drill through the head on all four wheels. I did not attempt to remove or replace any of the set screws. They are not a necessity and I did not want to deal with an issue again of them rusting up like that and not being able to remove them.

[Aceway]

Did you just drill through the bolt? I tried that on a different car and it took way too long so I got pissed and cut the head of the bolt.

[Segments]

Originally Posted by Aceway

Did you just drill through the bolt? I tried that on a different car and it took way too long so I got pissed and cut the head of the bolt.

I ended up drilling through head which allows you to slide the rotor off.

[sonofsun]

Try a rescue bit for this kind of application.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B1E5APO...v_ov_lig_dp_it

It's expensive but quite a few people seem to stand by it. The key with rescuebit is to not push the bit too much but move it in a circular fashion to keep expanding the hole.

[Segments]

Originally Posted by sonofsun

Try a rescue bit for this kind of application.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B1E5APO...v_ov_lig_dp_it

It's expensive but quite a few people seem to stand by it. The key with rescuebit is to not push the bit too much but move it in a circular fashion to keep expanding the hole.

Wow never heard of that. If it was a crucial bolt/screw I wouls give that a shot, but since its so easily ignored I will save the money for now haha. Thanks for the recommendation!