[Tambohamilton]

Everyone likes a tight back end. Especially when it's their own

[bmw_solid]

Originally Posted by Robimplicit

I just purchased the Monroe upper mount kit (PN 907984) for a 2011 335d. I couldn't figure out where to place the large black metal washer so I called tech support at Monroe. I learned that the proper sequence for parts placement starting above the metal top hat cover over the bump stop (from bottom to top) is black metal washer over the top hat; lower rubber mount, then insert the metal sleeve into the lower mount; then, of course, the upper mount from inside the trunk. Lubricate with silicone spray or lithium grease.
Thought this might be helpful.

Right, so according to the Tech support at Monroe, the black washer they supply does need to be fitted then...Interesting as many people have not fitted the washer on here...

Is your car a SE or M-Sport, although this wont make much of a difference...

Also, did they mention anything about pre-loading the mount then torqeuing the top nut? As according to the BMW instructions, the squishy foam mounts don't need a pre-load or car at normal riding height when tightening the top nut. Only the bottom nut of the shock absorber requires to be tightened at normal ride height...

[Tambohamilton]

Originally Posted by bmw_solid

Also, did they mention anything about pre-loading the mount then torqeuing the top nut? As according to the BMW instructions, the squishy foam mounts don't need a pre-load or car at normal riding height when tightening the top nut. Only the bottom nut of the shock absorber requires to be tightened at normal ride height...

No need to preload, etc. And only the M3 bottom mount will need to be torqued at ride height; not a standard non-M one.

[bmw_solid]

Originally Posted by Tambohamilton

No need to preload, etc. And only the M3 bottom mount will need to be torqued at ride height; not a standard non-M one.

Ok, its just that someone mentioned on this thread that the mounts need to be squished a tad to work/compress properly - surely this can't be true!!

[Tambohamilton]

Yep, they compress down onto the chassis as you tighten the nut. But all you need to do is tighten the nut and it's done.

[bmw_solid]

Originally Posted by Tambohamilton

Yep, they compress down onto the chassis as you tighten the nut. But all you need to do is tighten the nut and it's done.

Ok noted.

So it's just the washer that's uncertain. Monroe tech support says it needs to be installed but are they saying this as due diligence and protect themselves from people knocking on their door just incase people didn't use the washer in place of the oem cup?

[Tambohamilton]

Monroe says it needs to be installed...what's uncertain?

[The Nightman]

Originally Posted by Robimplicit

I just purchased the Monroe upper mount kit (PN 907984) for a 2011 335d. I couldn't figure out where to place the large black metal washer so I called tech support at Monroe. I learned that the proper sequence for parts placement starting above the metal top hat cover over the bump stop (from bottom to top) is black metal washer over the top hat; lower rubber mount, then insert the metal sleeve into the lower mount; then, of course, the upper mount from inside the trunk. Lubricate with silicone spray or lithium grease.
Thought this might be helpful.

Interesting, so Monroe says to install the black washer on top of the factory supporting cup (33526764418)? Seems like a good idea considering the cup rusts out overtime.

[bmw_solid]

Originally Posted by Tambohamilton

Monroe says it needs to be installed...what's uncertain?

A lot of the people on this thread didnt use the washer - the general consensus was that the washer is to be used in place of the oem cup if the oem cup wasn't used. But monroe tech support say it should be used with the oem cup...

[colorado.e9x]

Might as well use it. It certainly can't hurt. I installed it with mine cause the oem cup seemed flimsy. I cant see it affecting ride height hardly at all.

[Tambohamilton]

If Monroe say use it, use it, surely? Why would you not use it?

[lowrydr310]

Originally Posted by bmw_solid

A lot of the people on this thread didnt use the washer - the general consensus was that the washer is to be used in place of the oem cup if the oem cup wasn't used. But monroe tech support say it should be used with the oem cup...

I tried the Monroe mounts with the original cup and no washer. I was getting an annoying rattle despite checking the torque on the top nuts numerous times. I swapped them out for Lemforder mounts and the rattle went away.

Even with the rattle and the stiffer mounts, I didn't notice any difference in handling or feel of the rear end.

[bmw_solid]

What's the general consensus in terms of benefits of doing this mod?

A more firm rear end? In terms of what though? Handling or bumps/secondary bounce?

I'm surprised that this mod doesn't seem to improve the tightness of the rear end (handling and feedback) but more so the bumps...

Surely these firmer mounts would stop that extra squish lime the OEM foam.monts during around a bend?

What is/are the main benefits of this mod? Does it help handling? Does it help provide better dampening.

I know the oem foam.mounts are for rf tyres but these mouns coupled with non rf tyres should be decent around corners

[bmw_solid]

Ok guys, I think its sensible to use the Monroe washer with the OEM Cup. The reason being because 1mm of gap or clearance plays a massive role in the compression of these rubber mounts. I remember a post on babybmw and even 1mm of compression of this upper mount requires a lot of force.

Is it necessary to loosen the lower shock mount bolts or just remove top nut and press shock down, change parts and back in?

[bmw_solid]

Right,

So I attempted to install these Monroe rubber upper mounts as I was replacing the original shocks with B4 Sport shocks.

I did not manage to install them unfortunately. Reason: Couldn't even get one thread to be visible after tightening it down fully.
I used the Monroe Washer + OEM Cup.

Then I installed the OEM mounts back, and forgot to remove the Monroe washer and same problem, not even 1 thread visible on the shock shaft. So I had a look and realised the washer was there, so I removed it and voila, the upper mount nut tightened nice and easily down until about 4 threads were visible.

So, I now realise that maybe the Black Monroe washer should not be used?

Clearly the washer is stopping the nut from screwing more down...Is this is a problem or not?

I'm confident that if I try again, but this time without the Monroe washer, I would have 4 threads visible.

So I'm led to believe that the Monroe washer is a substitute for a missing OEM cup.

Also, I noticed a 2mm difference in height of the Monroe sleeve compared to genuine BMW. Monroe is about 2mm bigger. So 2mm bigger sleeve + 2mm washer is why the threads are not visible on the shock shaft.. See attached picture.

[mattanderson]

I had enough thread on my Koni yellows to use both the OEM cup + Monroe washer.

It sounds like a lot of folks with this setup are running Konis and/or excluding the washer.

After doing the Poor Man's Dinan Supplemental Ride Quality & Handling Kit (cutting 10mm from the sleeve + bottom mount), there's lots of extra thread.

[bmw_solid]

Thanks for your input.

What's the deal with the longer sleeve ???

If anything, it should be ~2mm shorter than stock, to allow for the 2mm black washer....So right now, the Monroe sleeve is 2mm bigger than stock, the washer which is about 1.5mm stick is also taking more space...so thats 4mm of space...hence why I couldn't see any threads!

Whats the verdict...? Use STOCK sleeve and no washer?

[bmw_solid]

Just installed these now.

Not rattles or squeaks - Used Monroe Sleeve and NO WASHER.

More thuddy noise from the back, which is a shame.

Handling is noticeably better. Just installed new B4 Sports and OEM SACHS D3 springs at rear last week. Surprised no-body commented on the handling with these.

The bump absorption is better in some aspects, like smaller bumps. But the bigger bumps feel similar to the OEM mounts but with more firmness, which is a shame. (New BMW bump stops installed also + new Febi lower rubber mounts)

I'm running 33 and 39 PSI stock pressures. I'll maybe reduce the rear to 36 and test drive then 33 and test drive over the next couple of days.

If the firmness over large bumps don't soften up, then I'll be buying BMW dealer upper mounts to get some softness again and better NVH.

Food for thought: Can Anyone comment on whether or not BMW offered the E90 with a no-cost standard non runflat tyres option? If they did, then the suspension components were definitely the same because realoem.com doesn't specify suspension parts for standard or runflat tyres...only SE and M-Sport. Meaning that the car should handle, perfrom the same with or without run flats? I'm sure I read a comment a while back saying that standard tyres was a no cost option @ BMW.

[psubmw]

I installed the monroe's on my 335xi and did notice it felt more planted with koni fsd's. I also tried OEM style lemforders. They did have a more compliant road feel, but now I feel that 2nd oscillation of the OEM type mount over bumps.

I think I might give the monroe's another try. I don't know what other manufacturer shock mounts look like that BMW used the soft squishy mounts over something more firm.

Do people notice any more noise or discomfort when using the monroe upper mount with non-rft?

[bmw_solid]

Originally Posted by psubmw

I installed the monroe's on my 335xi and did notice it felt more planted with koni fsd's. I also tried OEM style lemforders. They did have a more compliant road feel, but now I feel that 2nd oscillation of the OEM type mount over bumps.

I think I might give the monroe's another try. I don't know what other manufacturer shock mounts look like that BMW used the soft squishy mounts over something more firm.

Do people notice any more noise or discomfort when using the monroe upper mount with non-rft?

Can't comment on konis but I used these with fresh B4 Sports OEM shocks and OEM SACHS springs again fresh.

They were not worth it for me. More noise and thuds in the cabin, and too much of a firm ride and the secondary bounce was still there. These are not suitable for OEM shocks I think (they make the shocks work too hard). I got Lemforder foam mounts back in and ride is more compliant but on certain bumps yes the secondary bounce does happen. I test drove a 2011 E90 LCI 320d Man with 95,000 miles on the clock before I went and purchased my 320d LCI. I swear on anything, that ride was so tight and damped! You could feel the chassis awaken on turnings and the bumps were beautifully damped out and no secondary bouncy feeling at all (standard tyres on 33 psi all-round)! The dealer only sold M-Sport BMW models so he knew a lot about them. I asked him what's the difference in ride with standard v run flat? He told me not much at all, its just slightly harsher but nothing back-breaking and average guy wouldn't even tell the difference. SO Im convinced that having standard tyres doesn't affect the ride much on the E9x and that secondary bounce is not a characteristic of the E90, something is causing it.

I wish my 320d drove like that car - Mine is on 116k miles. I am now going to do the fronts with new B4 Sports OEM shocks and SACHSs OEM Springs + LEMFORDER Mounts hoping that will make the ride better and maybe eliminate secondary bounce? Could the secondary bounce occur in E9x with shot front suspension? Could that cause the rear to overwork hence result in secondary bounce? Time will tell.

[Tambohamilton]

Have you replaced your rear subframe bushings?

[Built4Sin]

Just changed out my OEM rear shocks for the Koni Actives. I've had the Monroe shock parts for a few years and never got around to doing them.

Anyways, I used the whole shebang, new metal shock cap, Monroe washer, and after comparing the Monroe setup to brand new Lemforder foam mounts, I just ended up using the new Lemforder Sleeve that is a few mm shorter. The longer sleeve just barely allows the two rubber pucks to meet and squish, due to being stiff. The shorter sleeve gave the rubber a chance to crush and allow the shock to do its dampening. My guess is the rear clap people are reporting is from the rubber pads with the longer sleeve not properly meeting each other or tightening against the upper shock mount. (Just a guess)

During the install, first side after replacing everything, I ran into what another user found. The threads topped out at just the top of the Nylock nut. After jostling around, I figured I would try the driver side and see how that played out. On the driver side, I found the shock alignment was better, after leaving the new bottom shock mount loose. That didn't bind the shock and what I assumed I had done on the Passenger side. The nut on the driver side was about an inch past the Nylock nut on the upper mount.

Go back to the passenger side and redo everything and presto the threads were the same as the driverside, at about half an inch to an inch above the nylock nut. Shock was binding due to the lower rubber shock mount being new and not ‘deformed’ into its right orientation (old mounts have a slight bend inward for shock travel)

Drove around 10miles afterwards clicking bumps to see if I could hear anything from the rear, and nada. Silence and compliance.