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500ish hp goal - What mods should I do?
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10-08-2024, 03:27 PM | #23 | |
Italian Boy
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10-08-2024, 03:40 PM | #24 | |
Colonel
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when you start having internal issues, it's where I loose it. I dont say N54 dont have internal issues, but most of their issue are around the engine, not in. |
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vmqxdv3.00 |
10-09-2024, 03:37 AM | #25 | |
.******.
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But it wont last." Do you mean something like MHD V7 ethanol map with stock turbos and inlets? I think thats the most aggressive map? I thought this engine would handle 500bhp with 17T or 19T with less chance of breaking. |
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10-09-2024, 07:13 AM | #26 | |
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What do you think about it? It seems to be all the item I've choose originally, except for turbos, in the video they say that are from china. Are they safe? Also the link they provided don't work so it would a gamble to get a random 17t |
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10-09-2024, 07:48 AM | #27 | ||
Colonel
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Based on my experience, playin with fuel bias, boost target and FF/wastegate, didn't bring massive difference at once. But the moment Ive put the meth and increase the boost additive target, the car came a rocket. I did 440bhp on mine with stock turbos, and I'm pretty sure there was more room, but the clutch didnt follow. Also had a major turbo lag, nothing bellow 4200rpm. Didn't look for more room, went single turbo. And this engine can handle more than 500bhp, I'm around 600bhp right now and might go around 650bhp and stay safe. Some folks pushed 700whp stock internals. Quote:
be careful swap depot and vehicule virals are parts seller. They will show you all the pros, no cons. And once again, no need of a massive FMIC, I have a small one and I never get over 85°F with my single turbo, and I'm even lower when I select a meth map. 7.5 need more cutting and fitting, while you probably wont go for crazy power since your area wont allow massive mods. to said you need a 7.5 on 500bhp, show me logs with iat. CSF radiator is a good idea on a TT setup. Other pros to go single = less heat, and csf radiator is more or less pertinent. But you want a oil cooler, OEM or aftermarket if your car is not equipped with already. search google for ''n54 500hp kit'' there's tons of info on that. Last edited by oVeRdOsE.; 10-09-2024 at 07:56 AM.. |
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suspect44.00 |
10-09-2024, 08:09 AM | #28 | |
Italian Boy
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10-09-2024, 08:26 AM | #29 | |
Colonel
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Single might even be easier to install back than bigger TT. |
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10-09-2024, 12:35 PM | #30 | |
Italian Boy
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In other threads, people said to look for a DKG but I think is LCI only, idk if it is stronger |
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10-09-2024, 04:18 PM | #31 | |
.******.
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Don't mean to thread jack but I am in a similar boat as OP wanting at most 500 bhp (because I don't want to change DMF to SMF and I just got a 550i clutch in there) and thinking of getting 14T or 17T because my current turbo wastegates are shot. I think 500bhp would be a conservative and safe figure for N54 with 17T then? I was wondering whether I needed a 7.5" FMIC or 5.5" (which I already have) and will stick with 5.5" if larger one is not required. Especially here in the UK it never stays hot for too long. Thanks oVeRdOsE. I think you have answered my question too. |
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10-10-2024, 06:34 AM | #32 |
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the clutch was original and 100k km, city driven. So adding a tune was too much.
I ve a twin disk now, good up to 740lb. TT give you low end torque, so yes 500hp is ''conservative'' if all the torque is not drop down at low rpm from a stop. A tuner can adjust boost per RPM. for the tune I do a mix. I log a lot, look at all parameter avoiding blowing up the engine, when I feel the car is where I want, I check the power on virtualdyno, and then send everything to a tuner that will edit the .bin fine on tunerpro. I've started to studying and understand tunerpro for a N54, but I dont have enough experience to mess with this. Increasing power is a good balance between boost pressure and timing. I'm running 23psi with 8° timing for around 430whp on map 6. Map 8 I did not finishing it yet, but I'm at 27psi with 7.5° timing + meth. I must be over 500whp for sure, somewhere 600+to the crank. |
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10-10-2024, 07:04 AM | #33 | |
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It would probably be smart to keep the car stock until you can afford to pay it off......see how much money you have to spend just to keep it running. Save up for some mods....or better yet, a backup reliable daily driver. These cars are fun.....but not what I would want as my only mode of transportation.
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2007 335i, BMS DCI, BMS Chargepipe w/Tial BOV, ARM Catless Downpipes, silicone inlets, Bilstein B12 Prokit Suspension, Whiteline subframe bushings, Front/Rear M3 control arms, G-Plus FMIC, Stage 2 LPFP, Custom E40 tune by Justin (V8Bait), xHP stage 3 transmission flash, RB Two Turbos....10.90 @ 128mph
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oVeRdOsE.3526.00 lookalikehuuh978.00 |
10-10-2024, 07:06 AM | #34 |
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Maybe.....it all depends on what kind of shape it's in. Some start slipping well below that HP level. Get and XHP tune for it, that will bump up the line pressure and help it hold more power before it starts slipping. Makes it shift a lot better too.
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2007 335i, BMS DCI, BMS Chargepipe w/Tial BOV, ARM Catless Downpipes, silicone inlets, Bilstein B12 Prokit Suspension, Whiteline subframe bushings, Front/Rear M3 control arms, G-Plus FMIC, Stage 2 LPFP, Custom E40 tune by Justin (V8Bait), xHP stage 3 transmission flash, RB Two Turbos....10.90 @ 128mph
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vmqxdv3.00 |
10-10-2024, 07:17 AM | #35 | |
Colonel
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When people ask me if a 335 is a good idea, I ask : - are you ready to go on forums/yt/fb group to get info ? - are you a good DIYer? - do you have contingency fund ? - are you ready to not have a car for few days? If yes to all this, this is a fun car to own. I kept my previous summer car, but the N54 is ''reliable'' for now, so my other car sits in the driveway with a dead battery ! Also OP got the option to enjoy the car with a stage 1 tune, no mods and do little upgrades here and there until he's ready to go big. |
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10-10-2024, 07:17 AM | #36 | |
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Does the order make sense? Last edited by vmqxdv; 10-10-2024 at 07:20 AM.. Reason: Grammatical errors |
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10-10-2024, 07:21 AM | #37 | |
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if you speak about the HPFP, this could be a preventive maintenance, early version will fail. Revised version are better. But those are expensive. Coil and sparkplug yes. Go simple , get Eldor coils, plug and play. Radiator always a good idea, do the water pump and thermostat, mickey mouse flange and hoses. The cooling system will fail 100% if old. You always can get a used JB4 on your stock car, and starting to play with it. You'll learn the basics, how to adjust some parameter, and when to stop increasing the levels. It brings tons of safety. It's not the best tuning way right now, but HP / $ / safe ratio is the best for sure. |
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10-10-2024, 07:26 AM | #38 | |
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BUT I'm waiting for a job position that will guarantee me to buy the car comfortably. So I'll buy the car even tho I can't legally drive it and do the fixes/maintenance jobs! *For clarifications: I'm 21 I drive since 17, but for various reasons I couldn't get the licence earlier. I know how to drive a RWD and powerful cars Last edited by vmqxdv; 10-10-2024 at 07:42 AM.. |
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oVeRdOsE.3526.00 |
10-10-2024, 07:35 AM | #39 | |
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About JB4 tho I was watching reviews of their "500hp kit" and many did not achieve those numbers (on stock turbos). But I think you were talking about only the tuning device and not the kit! For that I should start study how to tune a car, do you have any books/creator to recommend? |
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10-10-2024, 08:38 AM | #40 | |
Robot
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If you're set on getting a 335, buy a clean one and focus on basic maintenance first before you do any modifications. Modifications are useless on a car with old coolant system parts ready to break (expansion tank, radiator hoses, mickey mouse flange, radiator itself) and oil leaks. Get the car sorted out, learn to do basic maintenance, make sure all the oil leaks are addressed, then get the suspension dialed in (upgrade/replace parts if needed.) Then you can start the modification journey. The easy start is the basic FBO stuff (charge pipe, intercooler upgrade, and downpipes) and MHD Stage 2+ tune. That right there is plenty to have a lot of fun before worrying about turbo upgrades. |
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vmqxdv3.00 |
10-10-2024, 09:54 AM | #41 | |
Colonel
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Also, you have a custom maps (map 6 iirc) and this one might get the stock TT near the 500bhp. So not a lie, but not a straight forward way to achieve this... I still dont understand how people can reach 500bhp on those uber small turbos |
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10-12-2024, 07:36 AM | #43 | |
Colonel
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10-12-2024, 10:31 AM | #44 |
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Take it with a grain of salt since I’ve never officially went on a dyno, but logged and charted via virtual dyno. Results ranged in the 435-441whp range, 470wtq in about 10 deg C, 50 F temps (will be much lower in non boost weather temps aka heat of summer). Real world results had me pulling on my friend’s F80 M3 with GTS tune during a rolling run by half a car before we shut it down.
I think its all in the custom tune, but here’s what got me there: -BMS panel filter -Z4 35is intake lid -RB inlets -ER chargepipe with Forge DV’s -Mishimoto 5in non-stepped intercooler (could probably use a stepped setup) -BMS downpipes -Cobb PTF tune peaking at 21psi, tapering to 18psi tuned for 94 octane -Stock turbos were replaced and currently have about 70k kms / 42k miles on them -Keeping on top of your maintenance - even though I never got any vanos codes, for example, replacing my vanos solenoids proactively netted a touch more throttle response down low, partial throttle (same thing can be felt with new plugs/coils, cleaning your air filter, etc.). Last edited by Shoooter_j; 10-13-2024 at 09:44 AM.. |
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