[BSM n54iS]

Originally Posted by TplBimm

My EXACT issue RN! Will the thermal paste and pads fix my issue or should I just order a new one from good ole FCP? I have Protools so I can code a new one with no issue just trying to save $300+ if possible.

Have you read through this?

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showt...1888637&page=2

[135]

Originally Posted by TplBimm

My EXACT issue RN! Will the thermal paste and pads fix my issue or should I just order a new one from good ole FCP? I have Protools so I can code a new one with no issue just trying to save $300+ if possible.

You would have to test it out on your EKP to know whether cooling would be productive or whether a replacement EKP was required. I ended up buying a secondhand EKP from the same type of car (so it didn't need coding) and carried the old one as a spare in the glovebox just in case it ever happened again (it hasn't in over a year). You could also buy a secondhand EKP (instead of a new one) and apply active/passive cooling as a preventative measure and also perform the fuel pump voltage fix in ProTools.

[Torgus]

Originally Posted by NoGuru

I have made Active cooling for my EKPM3. What I mean by that is I have installed Heat sinks and a fan. The first one I made I just slapped a fan on the cover and called it good. There is not much space so the fan could rub or just not turn at all if it hits the seat.
I just made a new revision but I haven't installed it yet. Just want to show you guys and see if there is any interest in buying these if I made more?

FYI, I am running a Walbro 535 (Hellcat Fuel pump) and I have a Walbro 450 on a 15psi Hobbs switch and Port injection on the Stock EKPM3 and stock HPFP.

Here are some pics and a video.

Great thread!!!

[Eddy123]

Hello
First time posting here , I have a 2012 128i with n51 engine . I have been having issues with the Ekp which cause the car to shut off after 40 min of driving , once it cools off then car will start again and runs normal . I am trying to replace with a used one but not sure if I should look for one with the same serial number or just one with the same Fsv number . I’m trying to swap a used one to avoid programming it bcz the bmw garage by my house wants $450 to program it .
I am college student and can’t afford right now .
Pls see the pic attached of my EKp , any guidance on what to do will be very helpful
Thank you

[Eddy123]

Hello
Can you pls see my recent post and let me know if you can help , I tried to reply to you directly but the post went to the bottom of the tread .
Thank you so much

[NoGuru]

Thanks Torgie!

Eddy123 Just about any EKPM3 will work so don't get too caught up in matching it perfect. I found them on Ebay for about $40 all day long and I am not sure I coded any of them but you can, it's easy.

[iqraceworks]

Maybe I've just been lucky...but I've been running my Walbro 450 LPFP off of my stock EKP for over a year now, and I've never had any problems or issues with it. Or is the EKP overheating issue not common until you get into a pump that pulls more amps than the 450?

My car is an 07', so it has one of the earlier EKP's...M2 I think.

[theobjectivist]

OP, your signature shows you're running a bmp4. Did the ekp cooling eventually fail to keep up?

[NoGuru]

Originally Posted by theobjectivist

OP, your signature shows you're running a bmp4. Did the ekp cooling eventually fail to keep up?

No, the EKP did just fine. I just ended up doing more upgrades and eventually needed more control over my port injection.

[Derek Keenan]

Originally Posted by 135

Active and passive cooling on the EKP is a pretty good idea - I also saw a couple threads on the other forum which have a lot of useful information and technical detail.

The EKP can overheat with a Stage 2 or higher fuel pump due to the higher current draw. Sometimes, the EKP will have overheated far too often, in which case, adding cooling won't be sufficient. It may take years of use of an aftermarket fuel pump for this scenario to occur.
The symptoms of a failing/failed EKP will be that, while driving along, all of a sudden the "car on hoist/lift/ramp" dash light will illuminate and the the car will cut out and roll to a stop (this can be extremely dangerous, depending on the location, traffic and speed!). Trying to start the car will result in endless cranking (and possibly eventually a flat battery). You can wait (30min or more) for the EKP to cool down and then the car might start to get you home. If you were logging at the time, you would see the LPFP pressure drops to zero about half a second before the HPFP pressure also drops to zero.

The "car on hoist/lift/ramp" (yellow service) warning/dash light for the EKP (Source: https://www.drivingtesttips.biz/dash...ing-light.html):
Code 216
- Fuel pump fault! Drive moderately
- Fuel pump. Fuel pump fault. Engine may stall.
- Possible reduction in engine power. Drive moderately! Have the problem checked by the nearest BMW Service.
Code 309
- Fuel pump! Fuel pump malfunction. Possible to continue journey. Have the problem checked by the nearest BMW Service.

If you're experiencing this issue over and over (on different days), then a replacement unit will be required (which could then be cooled as a preventative measure).

Depending on your fueling setup, you might consider the BPM4 fuel pump control module but, at USD $650, it's pricey, especially when a secondhand EKP can be bought for less than USD $50.

Coding may not be necessary on secondhand EKP units, especially if they came out of the same type of car (e.g. N54-powered) and possibly if it came out of a non-N54 car. I'm fairly certain new EKP units will need to be coded.

I’ve been running stage 3 fuel pump from precision race works with dual 450 walbros+ hob switch no problem, about a month ago I installed port injection and went full e85 about a few weeks later my car couldn’t build any fuel pressure and my tuner suggested my lpfp died ended up wiring the hob switch connectors together to keep constant power to the second pump to get home, I replaced the primary fuel pump and car had no issues until a week later and it did the same thing so I had to use my second pump to get home. The next day I started my car and it started up fine, any ideas on what it could be? I’m assuming the ekp is over heating? It hasn’t done that since I went on full e85, before I ran straight 91 on the stage 3 fuel pump

[e90matt335xi]

Can you message me links to the supplies? I’d like to give this a go , I’ve recently been running into issues with my ekp overheating after upgrading my lpfp

[eastsidaz]

Originally Posted by e90matt335xi

Can you message me links to the supplies? I’d like to give this a go , I’ve recently been running into issues with my ekp overheating after upgrading my lpfp

See first link below. All you really need is thermal pad under board. Anything else isn't really doing much.

For links change 5 to an S in Spoooolstreet
https://www.5poolstreet.com/threads/...28/post-101525

Full thread here
https://www.5poolstreet.com/threads/...for-lpfp.6628/

[NoGuru]

Originally Posted by Derek Keenan

I’ve been running stage 3 fuel pump from precision race works with dual 450 walbros+ hob switch no problem, about a month ago I installed port injection and went full e85 about a few weeks later my car couldn’t build any fuel pressure and my tuner suggested my lpfp died ended up wiring the hob switch connectors together to keep constant power to the second pump to get home, I replaced the primary fuel pump and car had no issues until a week later and it did the same thing so I had to use my second pump to get home. The next day I started my car and it started up fine, any ideas on what it could be? I’m assuming the ekp is over heating? It hasn’t done that since I went on full e85, before I ran straight 91 on the stage 3 fuel pump

If you know what you are doing you can get a hobbs that actives at a lower boost and have the PI take more load or you are correct, the EKP is most likely overheating.

[lookalikehuuh]

Originally Posted by GovernUrMental

See first link below. All you really need is thermal pad under board. Anything else isn't really doing much.

I, respectfully, disagree with this statement.

Living in southern California the temperatures definitely climb up in the summer months. This is the time when I had the most issues on my diy walbro 450 and EKPM. The car chassis actually becomes extremely hot when parked in the sun and I found it transfer heat directly TO the EKPM further exacerbating the heating issues. My car being dark grey I actually found the installation bracket to be skin searingly hot one day when I went to go install a modified the EKPM2 module I had modified the night before.

In order for that thermal pad to transfer heat away the exterior surface must be cooler than the item it is attempting to cool, in the summer that not being true. After adding the Noctua 40x10mm fan I never experienced any further EPKM warnings, even in the summer months.

[lookalikehuuh]

Originally Posted by e90matt335xi

Can you message me links to the supplies? I’d like to give this a go , I’ve recently been running into issues with my ekp overheating after upgrading my lpfp

Hey, this is the list of items that I used on my EKPM2 to actively cool it.

Fan:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I used heatsinks similar to this... although not these exact models:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082RWXFR2...xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

As a replacement thermal pad on the bottom of the board I used some of this pad that I had from my PC Repair Job I used to have back in the day: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0999N3SZW...n_1_title&th=1

I also added some thermal paste directly to the bottom side of the EPKM and its mount:
https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-MX-4-2...s%2C209&sr=1-3

[Supahone]

Know this is an older thread, but I'm trying to determine if my 07 e92 328xi with a failed EPKM2 fuel control module needs to be coded when replacing it with a used or new EPKM2 module? Thanks

[lookalikehuuh]

Originally Posted by Supahone

Know this is an older thread, but I'm trying to determine if my 07 e92 328xi with a failed EPKM2 fuel control module needs to be coded when replacing it with a used or new EPKM2 module? Thanks

Probably not, this tread is for those of us that have high flow rates required for our N54 engines and our upgraded fuel pumps that require much more power than the factory fuel pump. This added load makes the factory EKPM overheat in these scenarios especially as we tend to use E85 blends that also add to the required flow of fuel.

Assuming you don't have an E85 tune with much higher flow rates from your fuel pump I don't really see a need for the active cooling.

[135]

Originally Posted by Derek Keenan

I've been running stage 3 fuel pump from precision race works with dual 450 walbros+ hob switch no problem, about a month ago I installed port injection and went full e85 about a few weeks later my car couldn't build any fuel pressure and my tuner suggested my lpfp died ended up wiring the hob switch connectors together to keep constant power to the second pump to get home, I replaced the primary fuel pump and car had no issues until a week later and it did the same thing so I had to use my second pump to get home. The next day I started my car and it started up fine, any ideas on what it could be? I'm assuming the ekp is over heating? It hasn't done that since I went on full e85, before I ran straight 91 on the stage 3 fuel pump

It does sound like it has the symptoms of an overheating EKP.
If it's still occasionally working, log every time you drive the car so when it happens again, you can check the LPFP and HPFP pressures. I posted what happened to my pressures when the EKP overheated and the car cut out.

[tylat2023]

Originally Posted by 135

. . . and also perform the fuel pump voltage fix in ProTools.

What is the 'fuel pump voltage fix in Protools'? I've used Protools to code the replacement fuel modules before but I don't recall seeing a fuel pump voltage fix.

Background: I have this ekp fuel module overheating issue. Even after upgrading to a brand new $400+ module from fcp euro. I got two fuel modules from the junk yard and use these as backups since it is so easy to swap.

The overheating (and cutting out) appear to happen whenever the temperature here in Florida is over 90 degrees and the car has been running for about 2 hours. so far, we only the engine has only cut out when at a stop, or failed to start when parked.

My car is a 2011 bmw 328i n51 e92 sulev. Note: My car is stock 100%. no mods at all.

I'm really tired of this problem and my wife is ready to get rid of the car because of it. Especially after we cut out while in the drive-through line at CVS pharmacy (with the brand new module in at the time). temperature was about 92 degrees outside AND my ac was not really working. I just recharged it last night so hoping that it will help to keep the temperature for the module cool.

[NoGuru]

Originally Posted by tyronelatour@latouresquir

What is the 'fuel pump voltage fix in Protools'? I've used Protools to code the replacement fuel modules before but I don't recall seeing a fuel pump voltage fix.

Background: I have this ekp fuel module overheating issue. Even after upgrading to a brand new $400+ module from fcp euro. I got two fuel modules from the junk yard and use these as backups since it is so easy to swap.

The overheating (and cutting out) appear to happen whenever the temperature here in Florida is over 90 degrees and the car has been running for about 2 hours. so far, we only the engine has only cut out when at a stop, or failed to start when parked.

My car is a 2011 bmw 328i n51 e92 sulev. Note: My car is stock 100%. no mods at all.

I'm really tired of this problem and my wife is ready to get rid of the car because of it. Especially after we cut out while in the drive-through line at CVS pharmacy (with the brand new module in at the time). temperature was about 92 degrees outside AND my ac was not really working. I just recharged it last night so hoping that it will help to keep the temperature for the module cool.

If a new module is cutting out you have some underlying issue someplace else. Could be the fuel pump or corroded line?

[Serf27]

I’m also looking for the fuel pump voltage fix in protools.
I don’t see that option?
Never mind, Bimmergeeks says it can only be done on EKPM3.
Fuel pump-> Functions-> Voltage fix.

[NoGuru]

There are a couple of EKP fixes on the market now that look promising if you do a little searching.