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      03-01-2011, 06:26 PM   #23
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Actually......JL W7 is used in the home too....

http://home.jlaudio.com/products_sub....php?page_id=4

But this is entirely overkill for a room that size and the price. I like bass as much as anyone but the only way Id get these is if I wont powerball and had tons of money. Even then, probably would have something built to the rooms specs better anyway
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      03-01-2011, 08:29 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daixloxbmw View Post
+1 Any of these Internet Direct companies will be a great buy. Best bang for the buck and you'd easily pay double for half the performance with one of the "Big Name" audio companies.

I have 4 SVS cylinder subs and they are downright scary even with Gain at about 1/4 on each of them. Just 1 of these would be way more than you need for an average sized room.
I guess he could get an STF-1. It only goes down to 32 hz, though.

I may be selling mine soon. The only reason I have 2 STF-2's is because I lived in a smaller place before and just had one. I bought another one when I built my house, but it is not enough. I've been looking around and just need to pull the trigger.

OP, PM me and maybe we can work something out if are not in too much of a hurry.
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      03-01-2011, 10:16 PM   #25
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Looking at the Velodyne Impact 10...thoughts?
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      03-01-2011, 11:37 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by BMW E90 View Post
Looking at the Velodyne Impact 10...thoughts?
Looking at the specs it wont play very low...32hz. Probably wont play very loud either in the 45hz down area. BUT, for your needs that may be what you need. I have my Def tech sub setup on the receive to only play 60hz and under and the sub volume is pretty far down but I can still 'hear' and feel some lower notes, as its rated down to 20hz. Corner loading the sub helps too (sticking it in a corner results in greater output). Bass is a wierd bugger. Velodyne makes good procuts though
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      03-01-2011, 11:49 PM   #27
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Okay so I've narrowed it down to a few subs, please help me choose the best one.

Velodyne Impact 10/12
Lava LSP10/12
BIC V1020 10"/V1220 12"/F12 12"
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      03-02-2011, 12:57 AM   #28
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I honestly cant help you on any of the other ones as I dont have any experience with them. IMO...your in a terrible budget range. Your at that point where you can get some 'decent' stuff but not quite the 'good' stuff. Dont know if that makes sense or not.

Again...just depends on the amount of bass you need. Id head over to avsforums and search reviews on those subs and go from there.

I just know that my next sub purchase is for sure an SVS without thinking twice, unless of course something else comes along to knock them off.
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      03-02-2011, 06:51 AM   #29
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Yes, I posted the link to avs forums to where he can get better answers, and get more educated on the subject. You can lead a horse to water but you cannot make him drink.
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      03-02-2011, 02:59 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackz View Post
I honestly cant help you on any of the other ones as I dont have any experience with them. IMO...your in a terrible budget range. Your at that point where you can get some 'decent' stuff but not quite the 'good' stuff. Dont know if that makes sense or not.

Again...just depends on the amount of bass you need. Id head over to avsforums and search reviews on those subs and go from there.

I just know that my next sub purchase is for sure an SVS without thinking twice, unless of course something else comes along to knock them off.
+1 In your price range, you will end up buying something that you will not be happy with very long. I was in the same predicament as you many years ago. I ended up buying a Dayton SUB-120 sub from Parts-Express. It had a 12" driver and a 150w amp for $149. It was okay for the money I paid but I quickly outgrew it and needed more bass. So I considered buy a better sub to use alongside my SUB-120 but had read some negative things about mixing low-end/high-end subs without proper tuning. I decided to just get another SUB-120 and had the two of them on either side of the room. This combo definitely raised the output (SPL) but didn't do much for quality. In fact, doubling up on a low-end sub only seems to emphasize its flaws. It sounded even boomier than the single sub. So this was another bad decision...

In the end, I said f*ck it and if I were to buy another sub, I'd just as well go all out and never have to upgrade again (hopefully), so I got the 4 SVS cylinder subs, which was total overkill but since then I have never even considered needing any more headroom. In fact, over the first few months of owning these 4 SVS subs, I've had to continually dial down the Gain/Freq Range on them as they were overpowering my other speakers and made all male vocals sounded a big like James Earl Jones.

So the moral of the story (if you want to learn from my mistakes), is to save up and buy a good sub and save yourself a bunch of time and money upgrading. I would say once you save up to $400-$500 range, you have enough to get into a quality sub from one of the ID sub brands that won't need to be upgraded for a while unless your room gets any bigger.

Note - the two Dayton SUB-120s are currently disassembled and being upgraded with new drivers, ports and possibly amps too. Just a fun project that I've been tinkering with.
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      03-03-2011, 12:53 AM   #31
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^ I probably won't outgrow a sub for a long time. I think any decent one will be enough for me. I'm not gonna be bumping things crazy loud.

Guys, I've been a member over at the AVSForum for a year or two now. I've just recently started looking into home audio stuff. I've been reading a bit about subs but there are too many brands and models. I could go and spend $500-1000 for a sub but if I don't need it then it would be a waste. That's why I posted here and also there asking for opinions so I can make a decision.
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      03-03-2011, 01:35 AM   #32
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really considering the BIC V1020 now. I think I'm going to pull the trigger on it soon.
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      03-03-2011, 10:20 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMW E90 View Post
^ I probably won't outgrow a sub for a long time. I think any decent one will be enough for me. I'm not gonna be bumping things crazy loud.

Guys, I've been a member over at the AVSForum for a year or two now. I've just recently started looking into home audio stuff. I've been reading a bit about subs but there are too many brands and models. I could go and spend $500-1000 for a sub but if I don't need it then it would be a waste. That's why I posted here and also there asking for opinions so I can make a decision.
Hahaha that's what I said and well... things didn't quite work out like I planned. Getting into home theater is much like modding cars for me. Once you start, you just can't stop. Good luck! I hope you're right about not needing to upgrade.

Finally, getting a good sub is not just about "bumping things crazy loud", a good sub will also provide cleaner, smoother and effortless bass. The difference is clear even when you have it dialed down to low - moderate volumes.
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      03-03-2011, 12:20 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daixloxbmw View Post
Hahaha that's what I said and well... things didn't quite work out like I planned. Getting into home theater is much like modding cars for me. Once you start, you just can't stop. Good luck! I hope you're right about not needing to upgrade.

Finally, getting a good sub is not just about "bumping things crazy loud", a good sub will also provide cleaner, smoother and effortless bass. The difference is clear even when you have it dialed down to low - moderate volumes.
+1 on all accounts. A 'better' sub will also play better at lower volume levels then a 'decent' sub too. Those subs you have to turn up LOUDER to get volume from them. Its not just a SPL level you get from larger more expensive subs, its overall tone and quality. I have a 12" box sub I got at a flea market for $35 back YEARS ago, prolly 12 years ago, its 400 watt, I was using it on my computer as a sub system because it doesnt play as deep as my 8" 300watt def tech pro sub 800, or nearly as precise and accurate. The difference is quality more so then LOUDNESS.
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      03-03-2011, 02:22 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackz View Post
+1 on all accounts. A 'better' sub will also play better at lower volume levels then a 'decent' sub too. Those subs you have to turn up LOUDER to get volume from them. Its not just a SPL level you get from larger more expensive subs, its overall tone and quality. I have a 12" box sub I got at a flea market for $35 back YEARS ago, prolly 12 years ago, its 400 watt, I was using it on my computer as a sub system because it doesnt play as deep as my 8" 300watt def tech pro sub 800, or nearly as precise and accurate. The difference is quality more so then LOUDNESS.
+1 Making this argument into a car metaphor, think of a quality sub like a more powerful engine. Most will argue that "I don't need the extra power" and "I never drive that fast anyway" but a more powerful engine will also be smoother, more relaxed and provide more effortless torque even at low to moderate speeds. So just because you have a more powerful engine doesn't mean you have to floor it to fully appreciate it.
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      03-03-2011, 03:17 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daixloxbmw View Post
+1 Making this argument into a car metaphor, think of a quality sub like a more powerful engine. Most will argue that "I don't need the extra power" and "I never drive that fast anyway" but a more powerful engine will also be smoother, more relaxed and provide more effortless torque even at low to moderate speeds. So just because you have a more powerful engine doesn't mean you have to floor it to fully appreciate it.
Yup...think the N54 vs the N52
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      03-03-2011, 03:59 PM   #37
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I love my Velodyne DD10. Picked one used off Audigon years ago, still running strong. Great, tight, clean, sq bass. Really does the job for all my needs, more than loud enough for a big living room.

I find if you spend a bit more on Home Audio, that stuff retains its resale better and lasts longer.
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      03-03-2011, 11:29 PM   #38
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For home audio go for Paradigm!
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      03-03-2011, 11:40 PM   #39
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Okay I ordered the BIC V1020. I was gonna go with the F12 but it's too big. I was gonna get the Velodyne Impact 10 but since it's $40 more and doesn't go as low as the BIC, I didn't see a reason why I should spend more money on it. So there you have it, BIC 1020 it is. I hope it's gonna be good enough for me. Thanks for all the help guys!

Last edited by BMW F22; 03-04-2011 at 12:06 AM..
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      03-04-2011, 12:01 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMW E90 View Post
Okay I ordered the BIC V1020. I was gonna go with the F12 but it's too big. I was gonna get the Velodyne Impact 10 but since it's $40 more and doesn't go as low as the BIC, I didn't see a reason why I should spend more money on it. So there you have it, BIC 1020 it is. I hope it's gonna be good enough for me.
spend more now, save money later....but good luck!
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      03-04-2011, 12:06 AM   #41
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^ Thanks!?

The way I look at it is this, if in a few years I decide I want something more I will buy it then. If I need it then I will buy it. For now, I don't see the need for a very nice sub so yeah...

It's like with camera lenses. When you're starting out you wouldn't go out and buy a FF camera and an L lens (if you're a Canon owner like me). Sure the lenses hold their values well but unless you're loaded with money, you would go with a starter lens or something that's within your budget.
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      03-04-2011, 01:30 AM   #42
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So the sub (like the V1220) isn't magnetically shielded. How important is that and should I be concerned?
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      03-04-2011, 12:30 PM   #43
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Quote:
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So the sub (like the V1220) isn't magnetically shielded. How important is that and should I be concerned?
If you sit it near a tv...be concerned to a degree. The magnet will pull on the stuff in the tv and can degrade the picture. Not sure how this affects newer tvs, but old CRT's it would completely screw up.
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      03-04-2011, 12:35 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackz View Post
If you sit it near a tv...be concerned to a degree. The magnet will pull on the stuff in the tv and can degrade the picture. Not sure how this affects newer tvs, but old CRT's it would completely screw up.
Newer TVs have no electron beam to be distorted.
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