[oddjob2021]

Originally Posted by Mr. 5

This is so true!
I'll even update the titles to comment a bit further.

You guys really need to understand how a turbo works in order to do this.
Wastegates are there for a reason.
The statement down below is just like saying...
"Would it be bad if I just eliminated the fuse box and just replaced all of the fuses with wires? This way, there would be no fuses to blow."

Mr. 5 has a great laymens example for us all as always what a goood guy!

[leftcoastman]

CRAP! I think my front wastegate is rattling. I adjusted the rear one about 2 turns and confirmed with the "crowbar on the rod" method that it is not rattling.

But I still get rattle on decel. Anyone try to get to the front wastegate rod? Is it even possible?

[David1]

Originally Posted by leftcoastman

CRAP! I think my front wastegate is rattling. I adjusted the rear one about 2 turns and confirmed with the "crowbar on the rod" method that it is not rattling.

But I still get rattle on decel. Anyone try to get to the front wastegate rod? Is it even possible?

Rattle or just a lettle flutter,rattly sound?

[Mr. 5]

Originally Posted by leftcoastman

CRAP! I think my front wastegate is rattling. I adjusted the rear one about 2 turns and confirmed with the "crowbar on the rod" method that it is not rattling.

But I still get rattle on decel. Anyone try to get to the front wastegate rod? Is it even possible?

I don't know why the front one would be rattling because the front wastegate is supposed to be open during the idle and deceleration, hence not rattling against the seal.
The only thing that I can see happening is if the front wastegate isn't opening all the way.

[leftcoastman]

Crap - it's a full on rattle sound. I put a stick against the rear gate just to be sure...and sure enough, the noise is NOT coming from the rear, but rather the front.

ratatatatatat.

[oddjob2021]

Originally Posted by leftcoastman

Crap - it's a full on rattle sound. I put a stick against the rear gate just to be sure...and sure enough, the noise is NOT coming from the rear, but rather the front.

ratatatatatat.

ouch dude, what a rare case... i guess you have to hand it over to bmw? or if you're a super DIY'er you can take off the front turbo and adjust from there... i dont think you can adjust it on the car

[Mr. 5]

Originally Posted by leftcoastman

Crap - it's a full on rattle sound. I put a stick against the rear gate just to be sure...and sure enough, the noise is NOT coming from the rear, but rather the front.

ratatatatatat.

That sucks man!! It really sounds as though the there is something different going on with your front wastegate.

Originally Posted by oddjob2021

ouch dude, what a rare case... i guess you have to hand it over to bmw? or if you're a super DIY'er you can take off the front turbo and adjust from there... i dont think you can adjust it on the car

I agree. BMW should be looking at this.
It sounds like more of a wastegate issue.
Possibly a new turbo??

[BlueLion]

i tried this fix this afternoon, and couldn't get that nut loose. I was afraid of putting to much pressure on it.

[oddjob2021]

Originally Posted by BlueLion

i tried this fix this afternoon, and couldn't get that nut loose. I was afraid of putting to much pressure on it.

strange you sure you had a good hold on the other wrench groove (4mm)?

[BlueLion]

Originally Posted by oddjob2021

strange you sure you had a good hold on the other wrench groove (4mm)?

im sure i did....i think i was just being too cautious

[BlueLion]

wait wait....i just read your post again.....i have the hold the rod with the 4mm wrench to loose the nut first?

[oddjob2021]

Originally Posted by BlueLion

wait wait....i just read your post again.....i have the hold the rod with the 4mm wrench to loose the nut first?

My suggestion to avoid confusion is to PM Mr. 5. He always has a easy and succinct way of explaining it :P and yes i think you loosen the nut... then do turn(s) with the 4mm and then tighten the nut again.

[Mr. 5]

Just to let you guys know,
A couple guys came over yesterday to get rid of the infamous ticking sound.

Although I had a bad experience in the past with working on another member's car, I was persuaded otherwise by one of the members.
I learned a couple things during this work.

One of the members had a car with the newer software (+29.2) and the ticking was present.
The interesting thing is that the ticking happens opposite when compared to the pre 29.2 programs.

In the pre 29.2, the ticking happens at deceleration and at idle, but with the +29.2 program, the wastegates are open at idle, but once the accelerator is depressed, the wastegate shuts.
If there is not enough pressure on the wastegate seal, then the ticking will happen under light acceleration and throttle blipping.

Therefore, I have concluded that this rear wastegate ticking fix will also help the +29.2 software cars.

This is good news!

I was always curious with how there would stll be ticking with +29.2 cars since the wastegates are open at idle, but now I understand.
The ticking happens during the time the wastegates shut. Hence, it happens under acceleration.

If you are local and confused with my instructions or you do not feel comfortable with performing this work, then you can PM me to set up an appointment for me to take care of this for you.

[ocinek]

Great thread; Mr 5 you are doing everyone a big favor by posting your findings.

I have a 135 with 900miles and I just developed this rattle. I hear it loud during idle, and my car already has the horrible laggy software (July 08 build). The SA told me he would have to update the software first and only replace the actuators after it rattles post-update. My car has exceptionally bad throttle response and I wonder if the latest software will even slightly improve this... I will find out soon...

[Mr. 5]

Originally Posted by ocinek

Great thread; Mr 5 you are doing everyone a big favor by posting your findings.

I have a 135 with 900miles and I just developed this rattle. I hear it loud during idle, and my car already has the horrible laggy software (July 08 build). The SA told me he would have to update the software first and only replace the actuators after it rattles post-update. My car has exceptionally bad throttle response and I wonder if the latest software will even slightly improve this... I will find out soon...

PM sent.

[jgalaxy]

Thank you Mr 5 for this thread and your work here.

I've had my car for 13 months and have been experiencing a loud rattle for the last 8 months on cold start until it warms up and then only at low RPM (2200-2400). 15-20 minutes later it's gone.

BMW offered to update the cars software instead of fixing it which I refused.

Am I experiencing the same issue that is being discussed here? I would truly love to hear this nuissance finally disappear.

Thanks

[Mr. 5]

Originally Posted by jgalaxy

Thank you Mr 5 for this thread and your work here.

I've had my car for 13 months and have been experiencing a loud rattle for the last 8 months on cold start until it warms up and then only at low RPM (2200-2400). 15-20 minutes later it's gone.

BMW offered to update the cars software instead of fixing it which I refused.

Am I experiencing the same issue that is being discussed here? I would truly love to hear this nuissance finally disappear.

Thanks

Based on my experience with the other day, one of the guys had the newer program, and he experienced the same as you.
After I did the fix, his front wastegate was still rattling but only at startup.

It sounds like you might have the newer program already.
Rev up the engine and let the engine drop. If you here the ticking while the engine is dropping in rpm then you have the old program.

[adc]

Originally Posted by Mr. 5

Would it be bad if I just eliminated the fuse box and just replaced all of the fuses with wires? This way, there would be no fuses to blow.

DYI link, please?

[jgalaxy]

Originally Posted by Mr. 5

Based on my experience with the other day, one of the guys had the newer program, and he experienced the same as you.
After I did the fix, his front wastegate was still rattling but only at startup.

It sounds like you might have the newer program already.
Rev up the engine and let the engine drop. If you here the ticking while the engine is dropping in rpm then you have the old program.

My car was Aug 2007 production so I assume pre-29.2. It sounds like it may be a simple fix, with the exception of getting in there with the right tools. The only oddity is my rattling goes away after it's really warmed up with the exception of a small flutter on low RPM and what sounds like valve clatter on idle.

[M3KILL3R]

sup guys,
was over at Mr. 5's house on sunday to get my wastegate fixed and gues wat...

the wastegate dont rattle anymore!
im so happy about that! loll
no more annoying rattle

everythink worked out perfectly, didnt even take more than an hour.

Thanks man!

[Mr. 5]

Originally Posted by M3KILL3R

sup guys,
was over at Mr. 5's house on sunday to get my wastegate fixed and gues wat...

the wastegate dont rattle anymore!
im so happy about that! loll
no more annoying rattle

everythink worked out perfectly, didnt even take more than an hour.

Thanks man!

I'm glad you're happy.
I've done 4 cars now (including mine) and they all left with a smile on their face.

Seriously, if you guys are local and are having this problem then hit me up.

[Tschuss]

Mr. 5, now that you've done a few of these, do you have any advice as to how many turns are required? Are you turning, then testing for rattle and then maybe turning some more? Or do 2 turns generally do it?

-B